Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

With wheels blocked, motor off but key on, use a volt meter and see if you actually have 12 volts at your splice - hot lead from meter on your splice other lead on a clean metal part of the frame - have a helper activate and deactivate the switch for the differential lock while you are watching the meter - if you have the correct voltage, look for a bad ground wire - if no voltage (and you are sure this is the hot wire to the differential solenoid) - undo your splice,  make a jumper from the battery positive terminal and momentarily touch it to the hot wire on the side going to the differential - you should hear the solenoid click - if no click check the ground from solenoid again - last hope at that point is turn off the switch and connect  an ohm meter  to the hot wire and ground of the differential lock - an open - (no reading on the vom) means a wire broken beyond the splice, or no ground or a burned out solenoid on the differential lock - a 0.00 ohms reading means that you might have a shorted or burned coil inside of the solenoid - try reading at the lowest (smallest) ohms setting on the meter - manuals for your buggy are available in several places online - they tell you what ohm reading is allowed for many parts of the vehicle - search this forum for links to the service  manual - did I mention to check the ground again - lol - that would be a subconscious accident of 40 plus years of experience (bad experiences - grin) 

Edited by etimc
Added to the post
  • 11 months later...
Posted

I bought a slightly used (15 hrs) HiSun 550 UTV  from Rural King that had been returned by a customer.  It was running rough and couldn't get the gear shifter to operate correctly.  I bought it at a discounted price and have fixed the rough running and gear shift problems; new fuel injector and in-line filter, and idle air control valve.   Part of the gear shifting problem was because of rough and fast idle, and when I recalibrated the engine for the injector, the idle speed was smooth at about 1100 RPM. 
But now I notice that the rear differential stays in the locked mode all the time, 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive.  I don't think this is normal because it is hard to turn and the wheels dig out dirt and scoot when making a sharp turn.  Does anyone have a clue about how the rear differential is supposed to engage the locking mode?  

Posted

Not all Hisun 550 models (mostly 2016+ models) do not have a rear differential. They are a "spooler" type axles with a solid center  section--I.e. equal power to both wheels at all times.

OP (older thread, one post newbie has probably moved on but I'll try to help) , what model Hisun 550 doe you have, is it an "HS" series,  a "Sector", "Vector" or "Strike"? What model year is it?

Posted

Okay, I contacted the factory technical person about the rear differential "problem", and he said that the model I have doesn't really have a regular differential.  It is a "positrac" type that has both rear axles locked together all of the time.   So, I really don't have a problem other than I don't like that feature because it makes it hard to turn a sharp radius and tears up the ground pretty bad.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Daniel P said:

Okay, I contacted the factory technical person about the rear differential "problem", and he said that the model I have doesn't really have a regular differential.  It is a "positrac" type that has both rear axles locked together all of the time.   So, I really don't have a problem other than I don't like that feature because it makes it hard to turn a sharp radius and tears up the ground pretty bad.

Their stating it"...doesn't really have a regular differential." is correct--however to call it "...a 'positrac' type..." is not. Posii Trac is GMs  trade name for their clutch-pack type limited slip differential, which is a differential with a stack of alternate composite-faced  and bare steel plates, the composite plates are splined to the carrier, the bare plates to the axle (or 'tother way round). In operation when one wheel slips the lateral force generated by the driven wheel's side gear clamps the clutches, locking the wheels together. However It is a real differential and behaves as such when he force needed to spin the wheels at differing speeds exceeds the clamping force of the clutch pack--I.e. it is "limited slip" in straight-line travel.

Ford call s it Trac Lok.

Our vehicles do not have a differential at he rear, but rather what is usually and correctly called a 'Rear Reducer" or "Rear Bridge (Reducer)" that uses  a solid "spool" connection between the axles; there is no possibility of the wheels rotating ate differing speeds, or with differing power. Both axles connect directly to the reduction unit's ring gear

HS550 rear reducer:
HS550RearBrige-00.thumb.jpg.fb07ba4535a4fee36d245382b4e2a8a4.jpg

The downsides to this are, as you stated tearing up soft surfaces in tight turns, and tire wear. The upside is very  much improved traction in straight-line and modest turns without the cost and complexity of a limited-slip, or open but "lockable" differential¹ (there are other types in addition to the clutch-pack variety)--his is not a benefit to be overlooked. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
¹- Some pre-2016 Hisun 550 models did have open, but lockable (solenoid operated it appears), rear differentials--my understanding is they were troublesome and did not drive the vehicle especially well off road when not locked;  so they were generally kept locked which of course lead to "unlocking'" problems as the miles piled up.

Quote

 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By CapnWalleye
      Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
      - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
      - replaced the fuel injector.
      - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
      - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
      - replaced the battery.
      - replaced the O2 sensor.
      Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
       
    • By CSM_Retired
      This is for all of you Kioti Off-Road UTV, SxS (Side by Side) owners. Discussions about Kioti Off-Road specific topics including the Kioti Mechron, K9, 2400, and 2440 models. 
    • By Homeowner A
      I was randomly and briefly able to connect to my Coleman UTV 400s ECU the other day twice and haven't been able to since.  When I was able to access it, I found the following codes and wondered if anyone may know where I should start or what I should look at?  
      P0031 - O2 Sensor Heater Control Voltage Low
      P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Voltage Low
      P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High
      P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Voltage High
      P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure
       
    • By Homeowner A
      Is there a code reader available for the Coleman UTV 400?  I tried using the HUD ECU Hacker software and cables/adapters but no luck OBD to delphi 6 pin and KKL VAG as well as ELM327.  Will not connect.  I was able to get it to connect randomly a couple of times, but haven't been able to since.  I was able to clear and read the codes briefly.  I'm aware of the Tiny Scan 301 but it doesn't seem to be readily available.  There's a few out there but they are expensive.  
    • By Marie
      hello, i need help figuring out where all these wires go on this battery. I can't seem to find any pictures diagrams. As to what should or shouldn't be attached and where these two plugs go, that aren't plugged in. this was got as a project. would run then die and battery would have to be jumped off to start again stator has now been replaced but any help with this wiring would be appreciated. 
×
×
  • Create New...