Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2016 R4 and I was about to load it on my trailer and the steering just broke I think. My front wheels are both pointing outwards. Does this mean front differential broke?  I jacked it up and got them both pointing in the right direction. When up in the air they work together. But as soon as I put back on the ground and move it a few feet they separate again. 

Posted

I don't see how the differential can cause what you describe as it isn't really part of the steering system.  Check the CV joints with the wheels off the ground.  Grab the tire and see if you have any excessive play.  I would also look at the tie rods and Heim joints and other steering linkage componens that connect the two wheels together.  It's weird that they turn together when off the ground, but not when weight is applied.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Bloodhound
      Don't know the size anyone know the reliability fo theae
    • By Homeowner A
      Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load.  Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out.  It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature.  I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter.  No check engine light.  I don't have a code reader for this.  Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking.  I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good.  Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77.  What should I try or consider next?  
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.
    • By mhill
      I purchased a 2008 American Sportsworks Subaru TW265 UTV, with no manual and no previous knowledge. When idling, the steer column shakes uncontrollably, is very noisy, and might be from vibrations from the engine. Logically, I am thinking engine vibration moving up the steering column. I found a schematic, but that has not helped in identifying the specific problem.
      Any thoughts? Suggestions?
      Thanks so much
×
×
  • Create New...