2020 Hisun 250 Sector Safety feature
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By hisun junk
As I tried to do a conversion with the Yamaha 660 motor, I realized the 660 was never fuel injected so it would not work for the fuel injected hisun motor swap. But the good thing is the hisun 750 motor is a clone of the 660 Yamaha but with the components for the fuel injection (cam/crank position sensor). So that left me with a new rebuilt Yamaha 660 and still a broke 750 hisun motor. I took apart 750 think the timing chain had broke from all that I've heard about these motors. The chain was not broke, but just off cam and crank gears! The chain tensioner was at fault! I've ordered Yamaha 660 replacement parts, chain, two exhaust valves (which got bent when chain came off while motor was spinning) and seals. The piston has 2 little nicks where it had hit valves but no damage otherwise. The head is being redone at the machine shop and I'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Also I finally tracked down a Service Manual with all the info on the 550/750 Challenger.
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By Justine
I've had a Hisun Vector E1 for just a bit longer than is required for me to do some maintenance. While it's well-overdue, it only drives 1.5km a few times each week on a fairly decent gravel road (to the letterbox), and it has worked really well right from the get-go.
Looking at the manual it states that I need to use SAE80 API GL-4 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Main gear Case, and SAE80 API GL-5 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Front gear Case - unfortunately i can't find either of those online here in Australia. Plenty of options that look close, but, as someone who has never driven any vehicle before, I want to use the right thing and it's a tad confusing.
My question: Since there are no oils that are bang on SAE80 (they all seem to cover a range) would Liqui Moly Hypoid GL4 Gear Oil 80W-90 & Motorex Hypoid GL-5 Gear Oil 80W90 - be ok to use? (Or any other suggestions of what I might be able to purchase online in Australia) And would I have to drain out any existing oil from both gear cases?
This is a whole new world for me and being able to find exactly what is specified in the manual hasn't made this easy!
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By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
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By A P
Hi
I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode.
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By Texjpr
2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
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