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By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
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By Eagle Mountain Outfitters
Our R&D team just finished the first unit and wanted to show you guys. Need more cargo space without losing the functionality of being able to fold down the seat to use the full bed? Eagle Mountain Outfitters, the maker of the original metal UTV roof, has designed a foldable rear cargo basket to meet your needs. Price is $625 + $30 shipping. If you have any question's, please reach out to me at [email protected]
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By Greg Kilgore
This started back in the summer.
While on a ride with the wife. Applied the foot brake and the pedal went to the floor. Thought the brake pads were gone. Ordered new pads. Removed the wheels to install new pads and they were in good shape.
So I bled all 4 brakes cylinders. Got thin dirty fluid out. Almost like dirty water. No air. Got a good pedal.
Then about a month later, same thing, brake pedal back on the floor. Could pump the pedal and get a little pedal back. Bled again and finally got a good pedal. The fluid was nasty like before. No air. And the fluid was topped off in the reservoir before I started the bleeding process.
Now same thing. Pedal going back to the floor. Reservoir still full. I'm thinking the master cylinder is bypassing. So have a new on on the way and will report back.
What do you guys think. Could it be something else.
I used one of those hand operated vacuum pumps to pull the fluid out of the reservoir when I was bleeding before. First time I've used one. And after a small amount of fluid filled the catch bottle. Seemed like the vacuum pump quit working. Had to close the bleed screw. Pump the brake one time. The start the vacuum thing again.
Again just wondering what you guys think. Using DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid. Whatever I can get at a reasonable price at parts store.
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By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
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By Fishing Wiskers
Top speed is 30mph on flat grass ground. but it will not go up minor hills forward or reverse without a runing start. If you start at the bottom of the hill machine will stop about 1/2 way up. I have the engine cover off and you can see the outside of the drive clutch will stop spining., and the engine does bogg down some. Dosent matter if engine is cold or warmed up. Seat belts are connected. Fuel is clean
I am the 5th shop to look at it and different shops have replaced the fuel pump, injector, ign coil, wet clutch,
I am not sure how to check for codes with this machine, can anyone teall me how to do it?
Compression with hot eng is 145, valves adjusted to .005 with a cold engine. Dash shows 426 hours
I am not convinced it's an engine problem
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