Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, I've just acquired a used strike 250, 2015 model, I've noticed in low range it sounds like something is catching/rubbing it's not a constant noise more like something catching on a rotation however it's fine in high range, has anyone else encountered this issue and is it an easy ish fix?

Thanks

 

David

Posted

Keeping safety in mind. I'd put it up on jack stands, then crawl underneath and try to pinpoint the noise. Try it while it's not running first. It'll be easier to find the noise. If that doesn't work, then try it again while it's running. 

If it's in the transmission, it could be a pin, or something similar striking the side of the case, with every rotation. Probably an easy fix. But getting to it would be the hard part.

It might be something altogether different. But getting it up in the air would be where I'd start.

Posted

When it's in the air, the wheels will spin anytime it's running in gear. Just make sure the wheels are fully stopped before you change gears from hi/lo. I'm assuming that it doesn't have a clutch. 

Posted

That's right no clutch on these CVT, just couldn't understand why it only does it in low range I'm not up on gearboxes but I'm assuming that the lay shafts spin individually hence only noisey in low range

 

Posted

Sounds like it internal, it only does it in low range it's fine in high range and reverse, there isn't much to look at in the parts diagram of the transmission but I'm guessing possibly a bent lay shaft maybe from being forced into low range from high whilst still moving, looks like engine out and a gearbox rebuild 🙈

Thanks again for your help

 

David

Posted

Sorry to hear that, we were hoping for a simple fix. Hopefully there's parts available for your model. Being a 2015, you should be okay. 

I hope you'll consider documenting this process. Then sharing it with us, along with a few pictures. Aside from the obvious entertainment value. It also helps to create permanent, searchable data for others who face that same situation in the future.

 Just think about how helpful your own search would've been. If you'd have found the cause, and the fix, already documented!

If you run into problems along the way. We'll be here to try to help any way we can. Good luck!

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm afraid it will be some time in the distant future before I get around to this but when I do I will post as much as possible about it, back to the 4 zinger for the kids till then😊 although my 11 year old has informed me now she can drive she wants a range rover for her 17th birthday🤦😁

Posted

I fully understand that sometimes there's other priorities. No project needs to be hurried anyway.  Most of yours will be time spent in labor. 

If you decide to proceed, and just do it a little at a time. Please remember that its  very  easy to forget what went where. So label as much as possible, and put the bolts back in their holes wherever possible. Trust me, I've btdt, and this lesson was learned the hard way. 

On the bright side; at least your 11 year old gave you six years to save up! If your financial situation is anything like most. Then it'll take most of that lol. Maybe you could interest her in a nice jeep instead?

Posted

Thanks, there doesn't appear to be that much in the gearbox regarding parts so I'll contact the dealers tomorrow and find  out how much for all of it and availability, if it's not rediculessly  expensive I'll order it and replace it all at the same time, as you say the time is in getting the engine out, I just hadn't planned on having to do a major strip down so soon, my own fault I didn't drive the buggy the seller drove it around I stood and watched and you can only hear the noise while you're sat in it

Posted

Sounds like one of those things that you learn the hard way. But on the bright side, it's learned now. When I'm doing a test drive, I usually drive it like I stole it. So I know its limitations, and what it's capable of. 

I'll bet there's a few parts that are pressed on, in that assembly. Since you've got time, you might want to find out exactly what you're dealing with, before you start. It probably isn't anything that will actually require a total rebuild. 

My guess would be a keeper, or pin of some sort has come loose. That's the most common source of this type of internal noise. Although it could just as easily be a bearing. You might need a good automotive machine shop to complete the work. So it'd be good to know this beforehand. So you can price out the machine work between the machine shop, or the dealership mechanic. And to also determine if the machine shop can accept these tiny parts.

I think you'll find that hardened gears are price prohibitive, and best reused. And are likely undamaged in the slightest. You'll need bearings, and seals though. As well as the damaged part of course. But I don't think that I'd pre purchase the whole thing just yet.

That money would probably better spent on new belts, hoses, and filters.

Posted

This is the only schematic I can find and it strangely only shows one needle bearing nothing in the side cases! The idea of buying everything is purely because of the time it takes to get the parts once the engine is out and stripped I would like to have it back together and back in as quickly as possible before my memory of taking it apart stars to fail 😊

Screenshot_20200607-203258.png

Posted

You might change your mind once you price it out. But I still think that it'll just be a pin. Or a keeper of some sort has slipped off. Be a shame to spend $300.00 only to need a new pin, and circlip.

Posted

I would open it up, TAKE GOOD PICTURES, heck, even a short video of everything, if it turns out to be what kenfain said, a pin, or keeper, $5-10 fix possibly.

Order a new one if you want, install it,, off you go.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Travis, I've spent the last few hours looking at all the schematics available about the strike to work out the easiest way to remove the engine without doing a major strip down, I think I have worked it out and I have a  few days spare this week to pull it out, I agree with kenfain completely it would be a waste of money buying everything for the sake of something small but my fear is that once it's out and stripped I could be waiting week's for the parts, when you look at the position of these engines it's quite daunting to imagine having to remove one 🙈

Posted
26 minutes ago, Travis said:

I would open it up, TAKE GOOD PICTURES, heck, even a short video of everything, if it turns out to be what kenfain said, a pin, or keeper, $5-10 fix possibly.

Order a new one if you want, install it,, off you go.

I base  my opinion on the fact that everything is otherwise working properly. With only a little internal noise. I just can't see it being anything serious. Left alone for awhile though, and it could cause other problems. But I'm neither an expert nor a mechanic. 

Posted
7 minutes ago, David Cleghorn said:

Thanks Travis, I've spent the last few hours looking at all the schematics available about the strike to work out the easiest way to remove the engine without doing a major strip down, I think I have worked it out and I have a  few days spare this week to pull it out, I agree with kenfain completely it would be a waste of money buying everything for the sake of something small but my fear is that once it's out and stripped I could be waiting week's for the parts, when you look at the position of these engines it's quite daunting to imagine having to remove one 🙈

It sounds like you're talking about obstructions like maybe the roll cage in the way? On some buggies, just like on some cars. The engine is removed from the bottom. Either way, I'd fully expect that the engine could be removed as an entire single piece. Because I guarantee that's how it went in. Might have to remove the complete powertrain as one piece. But that's even better!

Posted

As best I can tell the engine and gearbox/power train are a complete unit  but everything is so buried on these there isn't much to see after looking at all the diagrams I can find I feel more at ease about removing the engine it's not that I'm not mechanically minded it's more of another long winded project I could have done without but I'll start to tackle it hopefully on Wednesday I have to source and replace the electric motor for my briquette machine before this it compresses saw dust into small logs for our heating boiler, there's always something 🤷😁

Posted
24 minutes ago, David Cleghorn said:

As best I can tell the engine and gearbox/power train are a complete unit  but everything is so buried on these there isn't much to see after looking at all the diagrams I can find I feel more at ease about removing the engine it's not that I'm not mechanically minded it's more of another long winded project I could have done without but I'll start to tackle it hopefully on Wednesday I have to source and replace the electric motor for my briquette machine before this it compresses saw dust into small logs for our heating boiler, there's always something 🤷😁

When dealing with electric motors, I prefer to use an electric motor shop. Unless its ridiculously cheap, and a guaranteed fit. I'll have it fixed. Motors are typically easy to fix, and the cost is usually cheaper than new. And it's a guaranteed fit everytime. 

Posted

I've been quoted £500 + vat for the rebuild of the motor I can get a new replacement for £200 granted it is a cheap replacement however it only runs for 8-16 hours a month so it makes sense at the moment to put a cheaper motor on it and hold onto the Siemens original until a rebuild is required

Posted

That sounds like a rewind. I'd think that it wouldn't need anything more complicated than brushes. But I'm sure that you've looked into it completely. So we'll take your assessment as the end of it. Besides that, we're way off topic here. So keep us updated on any progress. And good luck!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Bloodhound
      Any options on this machine 
    • By Prepper
      I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500.  Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire.  It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference).  It has compression.  I bought it not running, and no other information was available.  It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours.  It looks to be in very good shape.   Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
      My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far.  My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time.  My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct?  In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible.  In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another).  However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line.  Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust.  I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves. 
      Any thoughts ?  Does this appear to be in proper valve time ?  Have I missed anything simple ?  Thanks in advance for your input.


    • By TexAcoon
      I'm looking to purchase a 2015 Massimo 550 that might have an issue with it's throttle position sensor.   
      From the fella selling this UTV, he claims its to set the idle on fuel injection because the engine will not stay idle or when it starts sometimes it idles too high.
      My Question if anyone had any issues with their Massimo 550 and if it was actually the TPS or something else that would allow the machine to idle correctly.
      Thanks!
       
    • By Brett
      Fuel injected 700 starts great and idles great but touch the gas and it dies
×
×
  • Create New...