Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Got spark! 

Took the air box off, full of gas, almost up to the drain hole. Gas in both intakes when I open the butterflys ( with a flashlight ) I can see gas lying in there bubbling. That with the key off, It's  flooded. Is the gas pushing past the needle valve when heat builds up?

It's got one of the split carbs, like two carbs in one body.

Posted

Sounds like a carburetor rebuild might be a good idea. That might not fix it. But if there's an over abundance of fuel. That's not good. And could be caused by several things. It could also cause the problem, but at this point, you never know.

Fuel is supposed to come out of the jets, and go immediately into the engine, and immediately burned. Fuel that's just loitering around, is looking for trouble. So I'd address this first. 

Don't know about Chinese replacement carbs for the mule. But for my Honda small engines, they're cheap enough to not bother with a rebuild.

Carburetor rebuilds are best done by the pros for best results. But the kits are cheap enough to give it a try. 

That plug looks pretty much normal, not perfect, but about what I'd expect. Although it's probably past time for replacement. If the others look the same then there's no internal engine problems. But that doesn't mean that you have fire, when the problem is present. 

If the carb issue is repaired, and the problem is still there. You'll still need to check for proper spark. 

Posted

Got the carb off, cleaning the dirt off now. I let it idle for 10 min or so then shut it off and watched with airbox off, 15 min gas started appearing on the bottom of the throats trickling down the front. Probably time for a rebuild.

Posted

Those plugs came out about a month ago, been laying on the bench. I didn't think they looked to bad. I used to run an LT250 r so I do know a little about plugs. I've worked on a lot of motors but this one got me stumped. Till ya get it apart it's ready to go, nothing wrong. 

Posted

I'd hose it down inside, and out with carb cleaner. Pull the bowl off, and hit the needle and seat. Along with all the holes I could get to, including the jets. Then put it back on, and see if it helped. 

Might cure the problem, might not. But since I'm sure that you haven't got a carb kit yet. That's the way I'd go. In fact, I'm not only cheap... I'm stubborn too. So that's exactly what I always do first. Carb kits are mostly gaskets anyhow. Those are easily made, should you happen to rip one.

  • Like 2
Posted

I replaced the Carb on my Mule with a Chinese one, $75 was a lot better than $250....  One thing I like about the aftermarket carbs, they don't have that POS Limiter cap on the idle mixture... So far it's been good on mine...

When you pull the carb apart, look at the needle tip, be sure there are no small grooves or it isn't shaped funny (other than the perfect cone shape)  could be its wearing and letting extra gas slip by.. I believe they use a a Viton (rubbery) tip and brass seat..

  • Like 1
Posted

I checked everything in the carb, needle tip looks good, a little residue in the bowl, blew that out with carb cleaner. I think the temp get above 185⁰ F and the fuel pushes out the main jets. Someone has been in it before, bout had the screw heads stripped out on the bowl.

  • Like 1
Posted

Could a plugged vent tube cause this kind of a problem? I tryed to blow through it and it was plugged, I ran a wire up it hit a blockage pushed through it blew it out sprayed carb cleaner through it. Seems to be working. I feel like an idiot😂😂😂

Posted

Was it the vent from a valve cover to the airbox? Or from the carb to the open air?

Older carbs are also vented to the atmosphere... now days due to the EPA they vent back into the airbox.

Posted
6 hours ago, Travis said:

This may very well help someone in the future too!

 

That's true, and it's exactly why I ask people to please post what ended up being the ultimate solution to their problem. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • By Prepper
      Hello All...
           Just bought a 2014 Massimo 500 UTV.  It;s not running at the moment, but hopefully will soon.  I need a seat for it also (passenger side, if it makes any difference.)  It is a crank-but no start situation.  Just now starting to read the boards for solutions.  Apparently these models are well known for this issue.  If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to chime in, it would be greatly appreciated.
      Thanks 
    • By Tarak1980
      I have a Coleman HS400UTV-5 got it manly for hunting and spending time with the grandkids
      The one problem I am trying to avoid. My son borrowed it last summer and said it ran hot so he added water to it . I do not know how much he put in so I would like to drain most of it and add new coolant to protect it this winter. I can find no drain cock or any way of draining it besides loosening a hose.  Any suggestions ????
    • Get More For Your Device
    • By Alien10
      I have a Coleman Outfitter 550 purchased in January 2022 that runs and operates pretty well.  65 hours on it so far.   It is a work vehicle for my 10 hilly acres with two 1 acre woods and 5 acres of "lawn".  The rest is under a lake. 
      My parking brake does not seem to have any grip.  It worked when new but after a month or so, it is just almost useless.     I press the parking brake pedal hard until it stops. Still, it won't hold even on slight inclines.   I don't see the caliper move as I press the brake pedal down.  There seems to be plenty of pad left on it and the rotor is shiny as if it is rubbing a little when applied, but not enough to stop it from rolling. 
      Any thoughts on possible causes? 
       
×
×
  • Create New...