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By SayHiToRambo
08 trooper 1100
Bit of background. First the machine would take for ever to start. So I adjusted the valve shims into spec and made sure the timing is correct. Starts perfectly now.
now it fluctuates on idle. Bogs down, Revs up, repeat. I noticed the fuel pressure drops from 60psi to 20psi while that happens. It also bogs down at the lower end of each gear, higher rpm seems to be fine. Seems to struggle under load. In neutral it revs up perfectly.
brand new fuel pump, fuel filter, gas. I noticed on the fuel pressure regulator there’s that vacuum nipple, it’s not attached to anything and I’m not sure where it would go. Possibly the problem?
Another issue is the tip off the end of the exhaust is broken off, sensor is still attached and connected. Could that cause these issues?
my next plan was to look into the pressure regulator and voltage to fuel pump while driving. Is there anything I’m missing or any ideas you guys have?
thanks!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By boydog40
my subaru gave it up, bought a new Predator 670cc
problems is, wiring the buggy to the new motor, OEM key switch has 5 wires (red, green, yellow, black and brown)
new motor has many more wires than the Subaru and i have no idea what goes where!!!
finding any info on the web is almost impossible to do also
any help will be greatly appreciated!
thanks guys
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By Cory J
Belt started slipping when I used it in high gear. It works okay in low unless I'm trying to power it up a hill and then it slips.., Ordered a new belt and went to change it and found a good bit of oil in the belt housing. Has anyone experienced this? Belt looks fine. Only have 300 miles on this thing..
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By dman66
My buddy has a ut400 that the forward gear keeps popping out of gear. She only has like 400 miles on the odometer .the shift cable has been adjusted and the shift lever has been updated / modified. All other gears are good. Is there an internal detent cam or something that wears out or shift fork that can be replaced ? Or is there some other magic that I can perform ? Looks like the engine needs to be split.
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