Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

How much are youseeing a stock trooper cycle ? I have read 8 on here, but was told differently before. are there any tricks to increase travel , relocating shocks or something ?

Posted

Stock shock has 5" of travel so you are getting maybe 9" at the rear wheels. I lowered my diff so that i could use all the travel the cv joints give you,

Posted

Is it possible to chance the angle and placment of the stock shock to give more travel ? how much would I be looking at for a set of aftermarket shocks ? what is prefered Fox or King ? one dealer said they deal with king and the others have no clue wha to use

Posted

Flatbed & myself are using Fox. Travel is limited to the critical failure angle of the Axle CV joint. Joyner took the joints nearly as far as you can. You can get a little more travel by lowering the diff as Flatbed did and I am doing. There was a little more travel not being used in the compression mode. By lowering the diff so the axle CV joint is in a more neutral position you can add a little more travel, not much. Flatbed will have to share what he has found. I will not be complete until late Jan. King is a good shock but no one until Flatbed has done actual testing. We are both using Fox so that is the only data so far. I am working with Simon at OffRoad Warehouse located on Balboa in San Diego. They have a website, Visit offroad Website

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted
How much are youseeing a stock trooper cycle ? I have read 8 on here, but was told differently before. are there any tricks to increase travel , relocating shocks or something ?

I carefully messured My front suspension and was getting 6-3/4" to 7" on my T2. That is allowing the shock to fully compress before the spring is fully compressed and bottomed out. If the spring is adjusted more than aprox. 2" from the top of the threads to the top of the spring, the spring will bottom before the shock. I remounted my shocks both top and bottom to new locations. I now have aprox. 9-3/4" of travel on the front, I also run about 250lbs of nitrogen and 20 weight shock oil. So far I am real happy buthavn't fully tuned it in yet. I do that when both the front and rear are done. If I lower the front differental, I can increase this by maybe another 2" which I may do later.

My rear travel measures to have a total of aprox 9-3/4" of travel. eCurrently I have just finished lowering my read dif. The large sleeve covering the CV joint closest to the dif. is now 1/16" above the frame tubing. The axel will collide with the trailing link suspension arm befor the CV joint reaches it's lower useable limit. Even though I haven't moved my shocks yet, It looks like I can expect to get aprox. 13" of travel when I done. If I need extra spring compression rate, I'll first try increasing the nitrogen charge or else I can fairly easily go to a heavier spring. By lowering the dif. this much, I had to build a new skid plate under it.

Lenny

Posted

would you guys suggest adding the shocks on at the dealer so I can finance it all, or would you suggest not because i MAY NEED TO MAKE NEW MOUNTS AND GET different lenght shocks ?

Posted

To get the full amount of travel you will need to alter the lower rear shock mount along with lowering the diff. You will also have to put a bump-stop on the shock shaft to keep your cv's from pulling out. 14 1/2" travel with stock cv'S

Posted

On my rear susp my axles are rubbing the trailing arms when they are in full drop, and also when fully compressed. I have relieved the arms so that i can get the most out of the cv's. I am going to replace the rear cv's boots only so i can see the cv's, and what the end of the axles look like. I would like to put longer rear axles in. with longer axles you would probably get 18" of travel in the back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • By Nutcase
      I have a Joyner Trooper 1100 4 place that has been sitting for a number of years. I have everything taken care of but i can't get the fuel through the injectors. Fuel pump puts full pressure on them but they don't turn on or spray fuel. Any ideas?
    • By KimAC
      I need a pair of front shocks for a Landpride Treker 4200NT, from 2005?  Does anyone know of a good salvage yard - or another source?
      The old shocks have "SEBAC 11685 12 3" stamped on them (or something very close - it's hard to read). I think SEBAC are (were?) an Italian company.
      Is there a compatible shock I can use? I don't have easy access to a scrap yard where I can compare shocks etc.
      Thanks,
      -Kim
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
×
×
  • Create New...