Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

rhino_ecu_small-795666.jpg

2008+ Yamaha Rhino 700 EFI
The Copperhead® ECU is a plug and play replacement for the stock ECU in the Rhino 700 EFI (not a piggyback solution). It controls the timing and fuel, and improves throttle response. It provides a typical 6% power increase from idle to redline (WOT), and a part throttle power increase of up to 25% over stock. In addition, the top speed limiter has been increased to allow for about 16KPH/10MPH higher top speed (results dependant on tire size). The ECU also allows for the speedometer to be recalibrated for different tire sizes, and fuel can be adjusted for aftermarket camshafts and pipes (requires optional USB interface).

FEATURES

  • Multi-Spark Discharge (MSD) allows for maximum power and virtually eliminates misfires, while giving you easy starts and crisp throttle response. Preloaded performance map allows the machine to run cooler, produce more horsepower and more torque, while minimizing fuel consumption.
  • Shipped with machine specific harness that plugs directly into factory wiring harness. Toggle switch on the unit allows user to switch between two preloaded setups.
    Default preloaded map keeps factory limiters (reverse / speed) and similar power when the toggle switch is in position #1. When the toggle switch is in position #2, all limiters are disabled, and the timing is optimized for maximum power on 87 octane fuel. Setups and maps can be changed and optimized for different fuel grades via the USB Memory Inteface (sold separately).

Price: $400.00

Velocity Devices, Inc.

Website: www.velocitydevices.com

Phone: (403) 668-7470

View the full article

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • By A P
      Hi
      I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode. 
    • By amiracle40995
      I’m getting a 700-7 every startup. I’m having to change the plug every 100 miles on 93 octane gas. I got a lower numbered plug that is supposed to burn hotter. I’m wondering why that comes up every time I start it and if it’s related? I included a picture of the code or whatever it is. I haven’t seen the code in the owners manual or the hisun shop manual I have. 

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By John M in Louisiana
      Quick question about replacing the plug.  One of the prongs pulled out, so I'm thinking it will be an easy fix to connect the old cord with a new plug but I'm unsure about the specs.  15amp 125v?  Is it more complicated than that?  I do plan to buy a plug that's water tight.
      Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...