Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok update....

Have done some digging and  apparently  this is is the "secondary air intake pump".....

Would love some pictures of how a stock setup is configured....is this needed?

Posted

Im in the same boat as you, when you look at the manual or the replacement part, the lower fat hose is a high heat hose, I spoke to a mechanic who in Canada is supposed to be the whos who for these machines he said it attaches to the exhaust system, mine looks like it broke off - but in the same breath he said they just take them off and seal off the vacuum hose portion (did not get exactly how he did that so bought a new one just to be safe) so I will look this weekend to see if i can find the exhaust port that it supposed to go to and see if that fixes my no idle issue - it was running fine up until 2 weeks ago then just wouldn't idle.  Put in new carb, gas line, filters the works, waiting on ignition cable and fuel pump just to be safe to see if that works.

Thanks

 

Posted

well.... mine is definitely not attached and it idles fine....

If there is an exhaust port that this attaches to please take a pic and post....I am getting occasional fumes in to the cab and if there is an open port that would prob be the source.

I plan on removing it completely as from what I have read it was there to meet environmental standards.....

(Can't remember where I read that but since mine seems to be running fine without it I will go with the assumption that it is not critical for operation)😀

  • 1 month later...
Posted

If you lift the back, look at the exhaust and just above it is the port here is the parts breakdown - the guy told me to remove it, seal it with smaller length screws and plug the hose or

remove it completely - my guess is that i just take out the 3 way connector, connect it directly to the fuel pump and see what that does.

 

image.thumb.png.568bfa5191ffcc3486d251a715d2f19c.png

secondary air intake.png

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 7/22/2020 at 2:51 PM, William said:

Im in the same boat as you, when you look at the manual or the replacement part, the lower fat hose is a high heat hose, I spoke to a mechanic who in Canada is supposed to be the whos who for these machines he said it attaches to the exhaust system, mine looks like it broke off - but in the same breath he said they just take them off and seal off the vacuum hose portion (did not get exactly how he did that so bought a new one just to be safe) so I will look this weekend to see if i can find the exhaust port that it supposed to go to and see if that fixes my no idle issue - it was running fine up until 2 weeks ago then just wouldn't idle.  Put in new carb, gas line, filters the works, waiting on ignition cable and fuel pump just to be safe to see if that works.

Thanks

 

Was the Canada guru named Aaron? He's been helping me with TONS of advice on the Hisun owner's group on Facebook. Wealth of Hisun knowledge. :) 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • By Buddee
      2010 Hisun 500 - Carbed'.  She sat for about 3 weeks since last use.  Couldn't get it started.... has spark but plug was not wet.  Bought new plug, cleaned the carb, confirmed fuel pump (pulse type) is working.  Still nothing.  Put gas in the plug hole.... started right up and idled as normal and drove perfect.  Used it for the rest of the day without issue.  Tried to start again next morning.... same problem.  Poured gas in plug hole again.... started up and best kind again.
      Anyone have any insight to what's going on?
    • By vachi
      hi everyone i have this 2021 Hisun forge 250 that won't start. no spark no fuel.   when i turn the key on i dont hear the relays click or fuel pump come on. it does have power but the relay doesnt ground the pump or the ignition coil. dont know if there are any safety switches on this model or not.  it does crank and all the accessories work. i  hot wired the pump and it does work.  i found a wiring diagram but it's very hard to figure out and was hoping someone has seen this before. all fuses are good. thanks in advance. 
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By Gorj
      I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit!  Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches.  Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed  to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk.  That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable.  There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut.  Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.
×
×
  • Create New...