Quantcast
Jump to content


2015 Kawasaki Mule 4010 dual battery install


Recommended Posts

Hi all, I am looking at putting in a dual battery setup to my 2015 Mule 4010. Anyone put one of these in before? Most of the research has pointed me to the True Am kit. Didnt know if anyone had done this or had a battery strap down tray they recommend or anything.  Between the Winch and the Stereo...and upcoming lights I want to be able to make sure it always starts.

 

Thanks in advance,

-Andrew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, I finally found it on  the Kawasaki website, the stock output for the alternator is 15 amps..... I know most lawnmowers that use a electric PTO for the blades put out 20 amps.

Kawasaki still sells the big 50 amp alternator kit for this 4010.. but it's anywhere from $300-500 bucks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Travis said:

Okay, I finally found it on  the Kawasaki website, the stock output for the alternator is 15 amps..... I know most lawnmowers that use a electric PTO for the blades put out 20 amps.

Kawasaki still sells the big 50 amp alternator kit for this 4010.. but it's anywhere from $300-500 bucks.

woooo doggy thats an expensive alternator. Dang.  Theres got to be a more cost effective option

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 7/24/2020 at 9:15 PM, kenfain said:

Try an alternator/starter shop. They do upgrades to automotive alternators for a lot less than that. So guys can run the huge stereo amplifiers. I think it's just resistors and stuff. But it's worth a try, since even with the dual battery system. You'll still need the extra amperage. 

Hey Kenfain,  not sure why I didnt get a notification on the post but I wanted to circle back. Thats an awesome idea. Looks like I will have a few calls to make and find a second stock alternator. If I have a high output modified alternator then I can probably get by with just the single battery too.

 

Ill post back with some info after I track down the local alternator shop and talk with them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The dual battery set up is still a great idea. Because the thing about high amp draw accessories, is that the motor needs to be running. Like when using a winch.

I had a nice stereo in a vehicle once. Every time it hit a bass note, the needle would tank. Just keeping time with the music lol.

Not hard to envision that a couple hours of listening to the radio while fishing...you might need that extra battery also.

Only you know exactly what you have in mind for your build. But if you're going over a true 40 watt per channel stereo. Unless you have the dual battery. I'd keep an eye on that amp draw.

         ---------------------------

I sidestepped all that by using a powered speaker. It's portable, and self contained. It'll run for hours. And it's got quality sound, that can be easily heard from a hundred yards away. It'll get so loud, that it can hurt your ears to walk over to turn it down. And it's much cheaper than an installed stereo. Mine was about $125. And its about the size of a milk crate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amazon has a 40 amp alternator for your mule for $100.  I'm sure there are other sources for a larger alternator and maybe for a lower price.  That stock alternator is barely big enough to run the headlights and other lighting and charge the battery.  Make sure you install a battery isolator so that if one battery goes down, the other battery is isolated and won't discharge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Qtband
      I'm looking at picking up this UTV and this is what the owner says:
      "All I know about it is it runs. Display does not work and it will not move! Front end or trans could be locked up. It moves some, but does not sound good."
      My question is, what could the moving issue be, and how can I check it out when I look at it? I feel the price is right at $2000, but I'd like to know what I'm getting into.
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By diamondjfarm
      I got an old 2003 Arctic Cat 375 Auto, and just bought a 2008 AC 650 side by side. Got a new starter, solenoid, and battery for the 650. Gonna change the crankcase oil and filter while I'm at it.
      Anything I oughta watch out for from them that's done the starter/solenoid on this model?
      Don't have a manual yet for the 650. Any recommendations for oil weight/grade?
      Thanks.
    • By mac66
      Apparently, these are Hisun or at least they use Hisun engines. I can't find much info on them online yet.  Ran across a used one with just 100 miles on it as a very reasonable price.  Just curious.
      Okay, more info...they are owned by Textron Corp who also owns Bell Helicopter, Cessna & Beechcraft aircraft, Ez-Go & Cushman and Arctic Cat and a bunch of other companies.
      So are thy cheap Chinese crap machines or are they good to go?
    • By FGT
      QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.

      EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.


×
×
  • Create New...