Quantcast
Jump to content


2015 Kawasaki Mule 4010 dual battery install

paraord

By paraord
in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

paraord Rookie

paraord

Posted
Posted

Hi all, I am looking at putting in a dual battery setup to my 2015 Mule 4010. Anyone put one of these in before? Most of the research has pointed me to the True Am kit. Didnt know if anyone had done this or had a battery strap down tray they recommend or anything.  Between the Winch and the Stereo...and upcoming lights I want to be able to make sure it always starts.

 

Thanks in advance,

-Andrew

Travis Grand Master

Travis

Posted
Posted

Don't see why it wouldn't work...

But (there's always a but). I'm not sure if having to charge two batteries and run lights....might be over tasking the alternator a bit...I don't know..

I tried to find what amperage the 4010 Alt is but no luck. I think stock they are usually between 9 and 20 Amp

 

Travis Grand Master

Travis

Posted
Posted

Okay, I finally found it on  the Kawasaki website, the stock output for the alternator is 15 amps..... I know most lawnmowers that use a electric PTO for the blades put out 20 amps.

Kawasaki still sells the big 50 amp alternator kit for this 4010.. but it's anywhere from $300-500 bucks.

paraord Rookie

paraord

Posted
  • Author
Posted
39 minutes ago, Travis said:

Okay, I finally found it on  the Kawasaki website, the stock output for the alternator is 15 amps..... I know most lawnmowers that use a electric PTO for the blades put out 20 amps.

Kawasaki still sells the big 50 amp alternator kit for this 4010.. but it's anywhere from $300-500 bucks.

woooo doggy thats an expensive alternator. Dang.  Theres got to be a more cost effective option

kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

Try an alternator/starter shop. They do upgrades to automotive alternators for a lot less than that. So guys can run the huge stereo amplifiers. I think it's just resistors and stuff. But it's worth a try, since even with the dual battery system. You'll still need the extra amperage. 

  • 1 month later...
paraord Rookie

paraord

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 7/24/2020 at 9:15 PM, kenfain said:

Try an alternator/starter shop. They do upgrades to automotive alternators for a lot less than that. So guys can run the huge stereo amplifiers. I think it's just resistors and stuff. But it's worth a try, since even with the dual battery system. You'll still need the extra amperage. 

Hey Kenfain,  not sure why I didnt get a notification on the post but I wanted to circle back. Thats an awesome idea. Looks like I will have a few calls to make and find a second stock alternator. If I have a high output modified alternator then I can probably get by with just the single battery too.

 

Ill post back with some info after I track down the local alternator shop and talk with them

kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

The dual battery set up is still a great idea. Because the thing about high amp draw accessories, is that the motor needs to be running. Like when using a winch.

I had a nice stereo in a vehicle once. Every time it hit a bass note, the needle would tank. Just keeping time with the music lol.

Not hard to envision that a couple hours of listening to the radio while fishing...you might need that extra battery also.

Only you know exactly what you have in mind for your build. But if you're going over a true 40 watt per channel stereo. Unless you have the dual battery. I'd keep an eye on that amp draw.

         ---------------------------

I sidestepped all that by using a powered speaker. It's portable, and self contained. It'll run for hours. And it's got quality sound, that can be easily heard from a hundred yards away. It'll get so loud, that it can hurt your ears to walk over to turn it down. And it's much cheaper than an installed stereo. Mine was about $125. And its about the size of a milk crate.

Dan B Community Regular

Dan B

Posted
Posted

Amazon has a 40 amp alternator for your mule for $100.  I'm sure there are other sources for a larger alternator and maybe for a lower price.  That stock alternator is barely big enough to run the headlights and other lighting and charge the battery.  Make sure you install a battery isolator so that if one battery goes down, the other battery is isolated and won't discharge.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Prepper
      2015 MSU-500 crank - no start
      By Prepper
      I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500.  Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire.  It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference).  It has compression.  I bought it not running, and no other information was available.  It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours.  It looks to be in very good shape.   Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
      My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far.  My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time.  My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct?  In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible.  In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another).  However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line.  Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust.  I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves. 
      Any thoughts ?  Does this appear to be in proper valve time ?  Have I missed anything simple ?  Thanks in advance for your input.


    • Gorj
      Sector E1 Battery change out
      By Gorj
      I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries.  I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each.  I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
    • rsar
      Washing Mule Underbody
      By rsar
      Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone pressure washes their Mule underbody. Three years in, I have yet to do this. I'm worried that the pressure washer could damage or dislodge something but it's gotten to the point that it could use a bath. Any thoughts?
    • Steve Waldner
      Looking for a Kioti Mechron 2200
      By Steve Waldner
      Looking to buy a Kioti Mechron 2200
    • TjB
      2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel
      By TjB
      My dad has recently acquired a 2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel powered. It worked fine  few weeks and then quit driving. Put a new belt on just to see. Still not driving. It already had a new clutch. Belt turns when in drive or reverse and back wheels are off ground to test. But wheels not turning. Thoughts? 

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...