Quantcast
Jump to content


2013 Hisun 700 not making power


Go to solution Solved by Andreas Ahrens,

Recommended Posts

Posted

Have you checked the digital clock on the dash for codes?

A lot of the models made in the last decade or so, blink the clock, and you count the blinks, to get the code. Others will display a digital number, that represents a code on the clock instead.

  • Like 1
Posted
59 minutes ago, Andreas Ahrens said:

I haven't seen any blinking, no. I'll double check though.

Sometimes it's displayed as a number on the clock. It might not blink, but just display the number. I don't know how many sensors there are on yours. But with what's going on with yours, there should certainly be a code. Have you looked at switching the upstream, and downstream exhaust sensors? 

Posted
19 hours ago, kenfain said:

Sometimes it's displayed as a number on the clock. It might not blink, but just display the number. I don't know how many sensors there are on yours. But with what's going on with yours, there should certainly be a code. Have you looked at switching the upstream, and downstream exhaust sensors? 

^^^this^^^ The codes display just like the clock display, but the colon (":") is dimmed out--they are easy to miss except that they do not change each minute--The EPS  (Engine Protection System) warning light should be on if any error codes have been logged.

Posted

I haven't seen mention of the oxygen sensor (in the exhaust pipe)  in this discussion.  A dead or dying O₂ sensor will  generate a low, or no,  output voltage; this makes the ECU think the engine is running lean, it compensates by adding fuel, I.e. making the AFR rich. This can happen without triggering an error code.

For more (than you probably want to know) about O₂ sensors--including how to test them with a multi-meter and a propane torch--click here.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well there were no flashing lights on the dash. We think we resolved it though, we replaced the injector and it's running much better. Maybe something got stuck in there? Hopefully it stops burning through plugs now. It still has it's hiccups like wants to stall if sitting idling sometimes and hot, and i stomped the throttle once when colder and it had a good bog. Definitely doesn't run like new.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

If you find out the problem please share.  Mine is do the same thing. I have replaced all the electrical components and still doing the same thing. The only thing that I have not replaced yet is the wiring harness. My 02 sensor is also shooting sparks out when starting. 

  • Solution
Posted
13 hours ago, Wood said:

If you find out the problem please share.  Mine is do the same thing. I have replaced all the electrical components and still doing the same thing. The only thing that I have not replaced yet is the wiring harness. My 02 sensor is also shooting sparks out when starting. 

Changing the injector seemed to have fixed it. We ended up selling it this spring.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By hisun junk
      As I tried to do a conversion with the Yamaha 660 motor, I realized the 660 was never fuel injected so it would not work for the fuel injected hisun motor swap. But the good thing is the hisun 750 motor is a clone of the 660 Yamaha but with the components for the fuel injection (cam/crank position sensor). So that left me with a new rebuilt Yamaha 660 and still a broke 750 hisun motor. I took apart 750 think the timing chain had broke from all that I've heard about these motors. The chain was not broke, but just off cam and crank gears! The chain tensioner was at fault!  I've ordered Yamaha 660 replacement parts, chain, two exhaust valves (which got bent when chain came off while motor was spinning) and seals. The piston has 2 little nicks where it had hit valves but no damage otherwise. The head is being redone at the machine shop and I'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Also I finally tracked down a Service Manual with all the info on the 550/750 Challenger.

    • By Justine
      I've had a Hisun Vector E1 for just a bit longer than is required for me to do some maintenance. While it's well-overdue, it only drives 1.5km a few times each week on a fairly decent gravel road (to the letterbox), and it has worked really well right from the get-go.
      Looking at the manual it states that I need to use SAE80 API GL-4 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Main gear Case, and SAE80 API GL-5 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Front gear Case - unfortunately i can't find either of those online here in Australia. Plenty of options that look close, but, as someone who has never driven any vehicle before, I want to use the right thing and it's a tad confusing.
      My question: Since there are no oils that are bang on SAE80 (they all seem to cover a range) would Liqui Moly Hypoid GL4 Gear Oil 80W-90  & Motorex Hypoid GL-5 Gear Oil 80W90 - be ok to use? (Or any other suggestions of what I might be able to purchase online in Australia) And would I have to drain out any existing oil from both gear cases?
      This is a whole new world for me and  being able to find exactly what is specified in the manual hasn't made this easy!
    • By rev6engines
      Black Friday is here, and we’re excited to give our offroad family 20% off on all parts and kits! Whether you're prepping for new trails or just fine-tuning your rig, we've got what you need to keep rolling. Now Is also a great time to upgrade your sled, winter's coming fast!
      If you have any questions or need help finding the right part, feel free to call, text, or email us. We’re here for you!
      Call or Text:
      801) 489-8697
      Email at:
      [email protected]
       
      Happy riding!!! 🤘

    • By A P
      Hi
      I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode. 
    • By Will Sutton
      I've got a 2023 UT400 (bought from tractor supply) and I've been beating my head against a wall with it.
      It will start and idle perfectly. The second I touch the throttle it sputters and dies.
      I've checked that the fuel pump is working  (it is).
      I've replaced the injector, throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, and intake air sensor. All with no change.
       
      I've just taken a look a the schematic, and there is a crank position sensor as well.

      Could this be the source of my troubles? If so, where is this thing located? I can't seem to find it on any drawings from the parts suppliers.
×
×
  • Create New...