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Posted

Greetings all.  New to this forum, seems like the Textron area is pretty quiet but I’ll give it a try anyway.  I bought a 2017 Stampede 4 XTR last year, new but had been sitting on the lot here in Alaska.  Been pretty happy with it so far (other than oil filter access) but it’s started having an intermittent problem recently where the check engine light will flash  and the throttle pedal won’t respond properly.  Both times I was still able to drive, but would top out at about 1/4-1/3 throttle. The first time it did it, I tried clearing the codes and they came back.  But 20 minutes later I cleared and it’s been fine.  Yesterday it happened again, and I cleared them on the first try and it was fine.  Electrical connections all look fine.  The code is a P2138 , electronic throttle out of range.  Anyone else seen this?
 

Ive only got about 200 miles on the machine, and I haven’t been thrashing it  

on a side note, I’m considering a lift kit if anyone knows a good source as the long wheelbase definitely has some limitations in rough terrain?  And a front locking diff.  It seems like there isn’t a lot of aftermarket support for these machines, which is a shame as it’s a pretty good setup.  I really like the low range, and the engine braking.  Have Gone up and down some pretty long and steep mountain grades. 

Posted

It's a fly by wire throttle.  Not your standard cable actuated throttle valve.  If it's like my Skidoo 900 ACE machines there is no TPS, since the throttle body is told by the ECU on behalf of the electronic throttle what position to hold.  The codes I pulled off the machine were for a bad range on part of the electronic throttle pedal.    via my googling a while back, The P2138 trouble code indicates that the Engine Control Module has detected a malfunction within the D and/or E circuits of the pedal position sensor.

Posted

Sounds like that might be the issue. What's the price for the sensor? How much trouble to get to it? Is it something that can be tested first?

Either way, I'd start by looking for obvious wiring damage. Because these things take a beating from trail debris. And because that's where I almost always start, since it's cheap, and easier than replacing stuff. Though I wouldn't spend much time on it. 

Then I'd replace the sensor if it's cheap. Test it if you can, or if it's not cheap. Because if that's not the problem, then it might get complicated. You mentioned reading the code. Is this vehicle OBD2 ? 

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