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Posted

Not surprised they sacrifice engines to meet ridiculous leftist  emmission standards.. but 230*-240* melts heads and head gaskets quickly , trust me  ... Mine runs very well now at 170* and the engine  heat that used to blow up my azz  is gone .. It even gained 2 mph .. I am amazed at people in Cali who think electric cars produce no carbon... how do they make the huge amount of electricty it takes to charge your car for 8 hours to be able to drive for 3 hrs?  WITH OIL, COAL, Nat Gas , Propane .. Your solar panels dont work at night .. or in the rain, or on cloudy days.. Wind turbines NEED WIND... so , I guess you solar charge storage batteries on sunny day, to then charge the car storage batteries that night , so you can drive 50-100 miles unless you use headlights and A/C then its 30-50 miles ......and REPEAT????  yeah, that sounds real efficient 

Posted

The folks who write the legislation out there just ain't right. I believe that by 2035, no new vehicles that are powered by gas or diesel will be sold in the State of California. They already have the strictest emissions standards in the country. Like I said, I never thought I would see the day that lawnmowers would need to be CARB compliant. Thus my opinion that powersports will be on their list. I have never been able to grasp the notion that a hotter engine is more efficient. Cooler air and fuel makes more power, so to me it only follows that a cooler running engine is a happier engine. But the manufacturers have to follow the EPA rules and regulations, so we have to live with that. Since the advent of computer technology in vehicles, changing the running temperature of an engine will cause error codes, and those codes will prevent a vehicle from passing the emissions tests that the left put in place. Unfortunately that issue has trickled down to the powersports industry. For now, I don't believe there are emissions standards for the powersports industry, but I do expect that to be a reality down the road. 

Posted
14 hours ago, T-boss 410 said:

That's been a fix that seems to the favorite, for good reason. But I have read some articles that say that running an engine without a thermostat could be detrimental. I just want to try this first. I haven't had any overheating issues yet, but I don't want that extra cost of parts and labor for something I could have avoided. 

Woah!,  HOSS  T-Boss! I am not suggesting you run without a thermostat (Mechanical heat sensitive valve) that is installed in the water outlet of the engine. The thermostat opens at 147 degrees F. to allow the engine to warmup, on the cold start.  The FAN Electric Thermoswitch is what we are saying could be  bad for the engine, it is screwed into the bottom of the radiator and senses the temperature of the coolant that has already passed thru the radiator and it is a switch that turns the fan on at somewhere around 230 degrees and then back off at 217 degrees. which it looks like to me would keep the coolant returning to the engine at over 220 degrees. 

IMHO, I consider that to be too hot for an engine like the one in the Massimo  UTV. 

To me it is a sad state of affairs when Engineers are mandated to design a vehicle for what comes out of the exhaust  tailpipe , rather, what comes out of the powertrain......

Posted
On 8/23/2020 at 2:03 PM, dant849 said:

This looks to be a pretty common topic and I've had issues with mine overheating since I got it back around the end of 2019. Started running hot again, thermostat was not opening and they sent me a new one. Installed that, burped the system for air all to no avail. Next in line is the water pump to replace, they sent me a water pump and when I got the old one off it was not turning freely to say the least so I'm thinking that could have been my problem. My issue now is getting the slot in the water pump shaft to line up with the tab inside the engine of the machine. Any tricks to doing this? Thanks in advance

I would try "Take the sparkplug lead off and hold the water pump up against the tab, by hand, and have someone just bump the starter and it should drop the slot over the tab."....If the waterpump bolts are long enough to start the threads into the engine, you may be able to start two or three of them to keep the parts lined up and just put a little hand pressure on the pump to tell if the slot and tab engage, then slide the pump on and quickly turn the bolts in to keep the two parts together

If you pull the sparkplug out of the head the starter might spin the engine too fast, since the compression won't be available to keep the engine rotation slow enough to let the tab and slot to engage.

Posted
7 hours ago, Mackc said:

Woah!,  HOSS  T-Boss! I am not suggesting you run without a thermostat (Mechanical heat sensitive valve) that is installed in the water outlet of the engine. The thermostat opens at 147 degrees F. to allow the engine to warmup, on the cold start.  The FAN Electric Thermoswitch is what we are saying could be  bad for the engine, it is screwed into the bottom of the radiator and senses the temperature of the coolant that has already passed thru the radiator and it is a switch that turns the fan on at somewhere around 230 degrees and then back off at 217 degrees. which it looks like to me would keep the coolant returning to the engine at over 220 degrees. 

IMHO, I consider that to be too hot for an engine like the one in the Massimo  UTV. 

To me it is a sad state of affairs when Engineers are mandated to design a vehicle for what comes out of the exhaust  tailpipe , rather, what comes out of the powertrain......

thats the problem in a nutshell.. the coolant returning to the engine is too damn hot.. how can it bring down the engine temp if its already hotter than the engine should run?  its insane 

Posted
2 hours ago, Joe Breaux said:

thats the problem in a nutshell.. the coolant returning to the engine is too damn hot.. how can it bring down the engine temp if its already hotter than the engine should run?  its insane 

Could it be that the radiator is too small for the engine, as well? If the coolant was to spend more time in the radiator cooling down, there wouldn't be a problem with the engine running too hot. It would also increase the amount of coolant that the system would carry. 

Posted

no, I think not.. if you increase the time the fan runs to cool the water, everything works fine .. so radiator size is not the issue, nor is waterpump output .. its simply set up to run way too hot.. at least for my severe climate in the swamp of south Louisiana . Might be fine in Canada, but it cooks heads  and gaskets down here  REAL QUICK... Mine overheated on its very first day.. .. 

Posted
36 minutes ago, Joe Breaux said:

no, I think not.. if you increase the time the fan runs to cool the water, everything works fine .. so radiator size is not the issue, nor is waterpump output .. its simply set up to run way too hot.. at least for my severe climate in the swamp of south Louisiana . Might be fine in Canada, but it cooks heads  and gaskets down here  REAL QUICK... Mine overheated on its very first day.. .. 

 

Absolutely,

If your UTV is running hot with ambient temperatures in the 80 to 100 degrees F, it needs air flowing thru the radiator.  The thermoswitch is a cheap way to raise the engine temperature high enough to satisfy the stupid exhaust emission mandate, which will soon destroy the small one cylinder engines in our summer like ambient temperatures.  (Today's high is forecast to be 94 degrees.) End of story.

Posted

I believe that these UTV'S would benefit from a larger capacity cooling system, as well as a higher CFM fan, a lower temp thermoswitch and thermostat.  I'm not saying that we as consumers have to do this, but the factory should at least have this as an option, much like the option to have a heavy duty cooling system on a particular model of vehicle. If you live in the north where the climate is cooler, it's not necessary. But in the south, as Joe has experienced, it would be almost a necessity. 

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I've read all this cause I have a 410 and was overheating - but I had coolant leaking - after alot of trouble shooting I replaced the radiator cap and my leak was gone, but I also hard wired the fan to keep it cooler based on how hot the thing runs.  So hopefully no issues moving forward.

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