Quantcast
Jump to content


Which front strut do I have? Need to replace

paraord

By paraord
in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

paraord Rookie

paraord

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

While installing the High lifter lift kit in my 2015 Mule 4010 I nicked the piston, strut rod, the shiney rod in the middle that I cant remember the name (no coffee yet this morning). I knew the nick was deep enough to eventually tear up the seal and she'd let loose. Well 3 months or so down the road here we are, its blown out. 

 

My question is how do I know which strut I have? I see 2 listed in the exploded 45023-1006 and the 45023-7503. The difference is the spring rate or K value. Seeing as I have high lifter springs does it matter the K value? And if that's the case can I use any of the 45023 prefix struts from various other models? 

Thanks all,

 

Andrew

Travis Grand Master

Travis

Posted
Posted

Do you have the 2015, 4010 TRANS 4X4 or the 4010 4X4?

On kawasaki's website in the diagram it shows the strut, and then it shows a K30 spring as an ADD ON option.

spacer.png

45014 45014-0259 SHOCKABSORBER,RR 2    
45023 45023-0005 STRUT 2    
92075 92075-1784 DAMPER,SHOCKABSORBER 4    
92144 92144-1919 SPRING,STRUT,K=30.7N/MM 2   (OPTION)

 

Now if you have the plain 4010 4X4, the front suspension used a K 1.95 as the standard stock part, and the K30 as an option.
spacer.png

45014 45014-1435 SHOCKABSORBER,RR 2    
45023 45023-1006 STRUT,FR,K=3.13 2   (OPTION)
45023A 45023-7503 STRUT,FR,K=1.95 2    
92075 92075-1784 DAMPER,SHOCKABSORBER 4    
92144 92144-1919 SPRING,STRUT,K=30.7N/MM    

(OPTION)                                                              If none of this helps you out, i would contact Kawasaki with your Model number (KAF-______) and also your V.I.N number and see if they can figure it out.

 

paraord Rookie

paraord

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Travis. I have the plain old 4010 4x4, not the trans model.  But the spring rate is negligible as I am going to put the High Lifter spring in its place right?  So as long as I have the right strut prefix it should be fine I think. Or at least hope.

Side note anyone doing this lift kit install here's a helpful note. When putting the strut back together in order to heep the threads coming up from the top so you can bolt it back together. Fully extend the strut and use a pair of vice grips with a mess of rubber gloves put on the jaws so it doesn't mar up the rod but keeps it from retracting. I'll post a picture as I am going to do this when I reinstall.  I clearly did the passenger side first before I figured out how to do this trick which resulted in the boogered up rod that chewed up the seal.

paraord Rookie

paraord

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, Travis said:

So the high lifter spring will be replacing the stock shock/strut spring? in that case, i don't think there will be an issue.

 

Correct, strut spring will be put in the scrap pile and the High Lifter spring will replace it. Hydraulic dampener portion of the strut will be used.  I knew it was gonna go after I put the cut in it. Honestly Im surprised it lasted this long. 

  • Like 1
kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

It's possible that the reason for two different struts could be the trans mule, or it might be for a factory cab. Either way, the difference would likely be the spring rate. So if you're using aftermarket springs. There shouldn't be a problem. I used c-clamps, and a large pair of slip joint pliers to compress mine.

  • 2 years later...
DaKoda Newbie

DaKoda

Posted
Posted

Can ANYBODY tell me what the difference is between the strut for the base 4010, and the strut for a 4010 trans? Any help would be appreciated. The trans sits ~2" low in the front. Would like a slightly taller strut. Thanks in advance.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Prepper
      2015 MSU-500 crank - no start
      By Prepper
      I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500.  Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire.  It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference).  It has compression.  I bought it not running, and no other information was available.  It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours.  It looks to be in very good shape.   Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
      My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far.  My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time.  My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct?  In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible.  In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another).  However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line.  Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust.  I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves. 
      Any thoughts ?  Does this appear to be in proper valve time ?  Have I missed anything simple ?  Thanks in advance for your input.


    • rsar
      Washing Mule Underbody
      By rsar
      Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone pressure washes their Mule underbody. Three years in, I have yet to do this. I'm worried that the pressure washer could damage or dislodge something but it's gotten to the point that it could use a bath. Any thoughts?
    • TjB
      2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel
      By TjB
      My dad has recently acquired a 2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel powered. It worked fine  few weeks and then quit driving. Put a new belt on just to see. Still not driving. It already had a new clutch. Belt turns when in drive or reverse and back wheels are off ground to test. But wheels not turning. Thoughts? 
    • Will D
      Mule 4010 trans overheating
      By Will D
      Hello, I have a mule 4010 trans that appeared to overheat based on the temperature light on the dash and it went into limp mode.  No steam though.  After letting it cool and the next day, I drove it around quite a bit and it did not have any problems.  Any ideas on this.  Do thermostats work intermittently?  I would like to fix the problem, looking for advice.  Many thanks 
    • rsar
      Kawasaki Mule Cab Eclosure
      By rsar
      So I finally got my Quad Gear cab enclosure after waiting out the backorder for three months and to say it's been a huge disappointment is a pretty big understatement. I think mostly because I could make it work, if not for one major issue. The windshield is right next to impossible to see out of. It's a real headscratcher because the side and rear windows are okay. It's not high quality 30 or 40 gauge marine vinyl but I have Quad Gear's stand-alone winshield so I knew it wasn't the best in terms of visibility, but definitely doable for the price.  Incredibly, the side and rear windows of the cab eclosure are just as clear as the stand-alone windshield. And the windshield on the enclosure is like 50 percent worse than the stand-alone. It's the same company! I don't get it. If it had just been the rear windshield that was that bad I would have kept it. There are some creases and wrinkles here and there, but I've been using the stand-alone  windshield for the past three months so it's good enough not to have to shell out $600 plus for the stock hard windshield. I'd put visibility at about 65- 70 percent. The wife hates it though, which is a pretty big negative. In any case, my original plans were to have an upholsterer change the crappy vinyl out for the high quality stuff and I even sent it to a guy who ended up flaking out on me and refusing to do it. He said he didn't want to charge me $400 for something I paid $200 for.  Long story, short, I decided to return it and just get the insanely expensive Kawasaki enclosure next winter since the frigid temps here are about to start climbing in a couple weeks anyway. I first put it on just to see how it would look (I took pics of course) and found that it didnt even seal 100 percent and made it drafty inside the cab. So make that two major issues. At least with the stock enclosure everything will be top flight. Doors will be nice too.




UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...