Quantcast
Jump to content


2010 Hisun 700 - wont idle and running rough

William

By William
in Hisun UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

William Rookie

William

Posted
Posted

Hello all 

I have a 2010 hisun 700 carb model, it was running great all spring during covid then all of a sudden it started stalling at low RPMs and now wont idle at all.  It will run if i keep my foot on the gas but its just doesn't sound right so I stopped running it. 

My first thought was bad fuel, we had a lot of rain this spring and thought maybe condensation so i drained the tank, changed all the filters and even got new gas line and removed the second tank just to be safe after reading about not need it, still nothing.

Cleaned the carb and still nothing

Bought a new carb just to be safe as they are cheap enough and still running rough

Found the other issue with the Second Air Supply and a hose that comes from the exhaust that was broken, bought a new one of those and tried to attach it and it disintegrated in my hands when i touched it so i tried to attach it to the 1/2 that was left just trying to see if it would complete the vacuum but still ran rough

Changed the oil and filter too just in case it was that but still nothing

Took the new carb apart and cleaned it just to be safe, took out the air/fuel cover which is the stupidest thing when they send it to you without a screw driver to take the cover off so drilled it until a screwdriver could unscrew it - turned it all the way in then backed it out 2 full turns (like everyone says is the starting point) and it ran worse.

Bought a new coil just in case the spark was the issue, installed that and getting good spark so not that.

Bought a new air filter and have to still put that in so will try that tomorrow

Anything I missing, I have tried all i know and there is not enough youtube videos on repairs on these carts so looking for you folks to see if you can assist and give me some guidance on this issue

Thanks!!

William Rookie

William

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No it won’t idle at all and when I push the gas and get it running it’s running semi smooth no surging but as soon as I drop rpms below 1600 it stalls

kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

There's several things that you can try. Like checking for blockage of the crankcase ventilation tube. Or the return fuel line. I assume that you've played with the air mix screw, beyond just setting it at two turns. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • BigWave
      2019 hisun won't run
      By BigWave
      I turned off the key and then tried to start it a minute later and it would not start. I changed out the fuel filter and the injector. still nothing. if i have the injector pulled out and close to the hole the injector will spray fuel into the hole and it will run but the minute you put the injector in it will die. any idea's please
       
       
      Bigwave
       
    • Chile
      MSU 700 Oil Burning
      By Chile
      2018 Massimo 700 MSU. The machine started burning oil all of a sudden. One day fine-- next morning burning oil. Looking for advice. Do I pull the engine to inspect the top end or can it be done with the engine in place? Pro? Cons?
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated in advance.
      Chile
       
    • Mike Jenkins
      2013 hisun 700 will not run, cranks fine
      By Mike Jenkins
      I have a 2013 Hisun with a 686 Yamaha engine.
      I purchased it from an individual and it ran fine as long as the battery was full.
      I replaced the stator and now it will not start (run).  It cranks fine, has fuel pressure, but will not fire up.  I replaced the coil, no luck there.
      a technician told me that it was the wrong stator and wants a mint to replace it.
      the wires all plugged in when I installed the stator.
       
    • HighSon
      Glass Honda Talon windshield adapted to Hisun Sector
      By HighSon
      This mod is not for the fainthearted, as it requires some basic metal fabrication and welding skills.  But the result is worth the effort IMO.  I chose an aftermarket Honda Talon windshield based on economy, size, and construction (aluminum frame, DOT glass, folding, windshield).  It fits OK, a little narrow at the top, and you need to incorporate the lower section of the original acrylic windshield and build some additional plates, but better than being too wide.  If you are wondering why I attacked this mod, it's because mine is driven daily on the street.  Tired of fading, scratchy, hazy plastic.  Sucks in the rain; sucks at night.  Now I can see.


    • didgeridoo
      Hisun Sector e1 Battery replacement: any tips?
      By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...