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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Alien10
Maybe members can post where they have obtained parts and service for their Hisun produced UTVs and ATVs, including the Coleman lines. Maybe post the model you have, what you bought, and how the products were quality wise. Also if you had any shop service done, where (city & state) and how it worked out for you.
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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By downseast
Hi everyone
Recently purchased a 2020 T-Boss 410 in what appears to be good condition
First time with this machine – I also have a diesel Kawasaki Mule which so far seems a better machine
It didn’t start and idle well particularly from cold when I got it and sudden take off ( now solved with new clutch parts ) was all or nothing !
I have replaced the idle valve, throttle position sensor, had the injector professionally checked ( ok) and also the pressure sensor this is a fuel injection engine, also plug and lead etc!
It still doesn’t run well and when starting I have to hold revs for a while as it wont idle but stall, thereafter its better and I have rebooted the ecu which has improved it
When I go to start it clicks as if there is a hydraulic lock and wont return after two or three attempts it then does turn over and start bit I need to give it a bit of throttle to start – is this normal ?
Is there adjustment for the air idle valve ?
The engine seems rough and with vibration compared to other engines I have been used to but some say this is normal?
I haven’t changed the Lambda sensor yet, anyone know how much difference this might make ( I have a new Bosch universal to fit )
Any advice very much appreciated, thanks
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By CRV
I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines.
if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me
thanks Randy
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