-
Similar Topics
-
By Texjpr
2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
-
By amiracle40995
I’m getting a 700-7 every startup. I’m having to change the plug every 100 miles on 93 octane gas. I got a lower numbered plug that is supposed to burn hotter. I’m wondering why that comes up every time I start it and if it’s related? I included a picture of the code or whatever it is. I haven’t seen the code in the owners manual or the hisun shop manual I have.
-
By John M in Louisiana
Quick question about replacing the plug. One of the prongs pulled out, so I'm thinking it will be an easy fix to connect the old cord with a new plug but I'm unsure about the specs. 15amp 125v? Is it more complicated than that? I do plan to buy a plug that's water tight.
Thanks in advance!
-
By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
-
By Ridge Runner
Hi
i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter. The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening. There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place. The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them. This is right by the tail light assemblies. I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in. Bottom line I’m making it worse.
coleman was no help. If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole. Any ideas?
thanks
Ridgerunner
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now