New Yamaha Rhino 700 Dual Exhaust from Muzzys
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By Jon V
Good afternoon. When the timing chain came off its lower gear (previous owner had over-tightened the tensioner), I ordered new parts.. chain, oil-pump chain, tensioner etc.. But now that it's time to put it back together, the main crankshaft makes a clang noise and stops when you turn it by hand. I want to solve this before assembling everything. The camshaft cover is off so that the valves aren't being activated. Should the transmission be in neutral to turn the crankshaft? The engine was running fine until the chain came off the lower gear. Then it would spin when the starter motor engaged so I assumed the crankshaft was spinning. Any advice is appreciated.
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By Brent4a
2022 Axis 700 overheating. We bled system several times, no luck yet. Weird thing is Radiator isn't getting hot and air coming into overflow jug. Doesnt seem like its moving water. Fan working fine, even wired it to turn on by switch. Only has 100 miles or so, just baffled. I am going to try bleeding more and see what happens. I did the head gasket test for fumes in the antifreeze, that was neg so far... Thanks
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By Mike-Tatum
I have a broken item I’m trying to find the name for so I can order a new one. The gas line goes to the fuel injector. What is the piece that attached the fuel line to the fuel injector; “Y” shape.
Thanks
Mike
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By Pat Meche
I’m new to this forum and hope I can find some advice. I have a year unknown Landmaster LM650 with original Subaru 650 motor. I want to put a muffler silencer on it. Has anyone done this with good success and, if so, can you tell me which brand and model you used. TIA
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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