Quantcast
Jump to content


Buck 400 oil change


KeithR

Recommended Posts

Owners manual says .34 gallons. There is no oil filter, just a screen that is able to be removed for cleaning after pulling the oil sump plug

The next question may be.....Where in hell is the oil filler cap?

Isn't one you have to pull the hex head bushing and oil dipstick tube to add oil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, jimH said:

Isn't the oil fill to left of dip stick and below the exhaust pipe....My question is where is the air filter and how do I get to it?

 

The air filter is in the metal box, with a lid,  on top of the engine kind of beside the battery, inside the frame, raise the cargo bed to get to it.

I think that that white filler plug is for the transmission. Anyone have a more positive answer? 

A local Buck 400 owner said you have to unscrew the dipstick bushing and  his new 400 from TSC came with a wrench that looks like an old timey open top hex spark plug wrench  with a hole in the side to stick a screwdriver thru for a handle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, KentC said:

It takes almost 1 1/2 quarts. It has a wet clutch and requires a special oil for ATV and UTV.  By the way,they recommend the first oil change at 25 miles. 
 

 Dild you try the liquid Berliner?  If so, how did it turn out?

is castrol synthetic blend 10w40 good to use?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a search for recommendations for atv utv oil and selected Lucusoil.  It was $7 a quart when I bought it.  Now Amazon is out and others want $15 a quart. $10 for a oil change on a $6000 utv did not seem excessive. (1 1/2  x $7).  $22.50 is steep.  Do a search and make your own choice what you want to go with. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This oil meets the standards and you can pick it up at your local Wally World.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-4-Stroke-ATV-Conventional-10W-40-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/19514362

I did my first oil change on Sunday - way too late (260 miles).    My manual has conflicting info.  Under break in, it says to change the oil after 20 hours or 500 miles.  In the chart, it says 20 hours or 200 miles.  Then I read some posts that say change after the first 25 miles.

It was a bear getting off the drain plug.  Luckily, my buddy is a mechanic and has a lift in his garage.

FYI - take a look at your owners manual in the maintenance schedule.  Be prepared to change your gear oil in the final and differential cases at 20 hr / 200 miles.  We ended up replacing the gear oils in both.  The oil in the final case was funky and had some metal shavings in it.  
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 totally get what you mean regarding the confusion of when and what oil to use. I saw in videos one thing in service manual another. Even the amount of oil differed between videos and manuals. Luckily I changed my oil at 25 miles after break in. I put  Castrol  10w-40 in. It took .34 gallons or 1.36 quarts and it filled it right to the top dot/mark on the dipstick. Yes you need ramps or a lift to get to the drain plug and I find it funny that to fill you need to take out the dipstick assembly. A neighbor had a vac pump to suck out oil. That helped out a lot. Thanks for heads up on the gear oil change. That will be next weekends project..I appreciate you posts and help. Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, KentC said:

I did not take the dipstick assembly out. I used a squeeze container like the old ketchup squeeze bottles they use to use in restaurants or the ones in BBQ restaurants.  Took a few minutes, but it was easy. 

That's a good idea, i'll have to store that idea for future use for hard  to get to oil fills.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did my prep for an oil change this afternoon. I can see where It is better to not pull the dipstick bushing out. The lower gear shifting cable runs close over the bushing , and there isn't room for a box end, or an deep 7/8 socket (I don't have a 7/8"  aircraft sparkplug socket)  I did get the shift cable out of the way and pulled the dipstick bushing  out with a 10 inch Crescent wrench.  I only had to use the wrench to break it loose then unscrewed it by hand.  The bushing is course threaded, hard black plastic and after I got it off saw that a 7/8" open end wrench fits exactly.  I had an old Snap-On 3/4 by 7/8 really thin low torque open end wrench and cut the 3/4 end off and ground down the rather wide  jaws . for a custom fit.  After I run the engine and heat the oil up a bit,  I will use the 12v oil change suction pump to pull out the old oil, rather than try to pull the drain plug,  after I run the engine and heat the oil up a bit.  after I get all of the old oil out I will pour a half a Qt. of new oil in,  My old long tapered ATF funnel is just the right size, then let it sit for a few minutes then suck it out to carry the residual old oil out, Then pour in a Qt of Valvoline 4 stroke ATV/UTV 10W40 in along with the 1/2 Qt.  from the other container, replace the dipstick bushing and check for the oil level.  If it isn't at the full mark I will add more oil and if it is way over full I will suck out some with the oil change pump, it's  small tube does pass thru the dipstick hole okay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW: The manual says "Don't screw the dipstick in to check the oil level after filling with oil" that would make the maximum oil level the length of the threads on the dipstick bushing maybe about less than a 1/4"

Also the owners manual shows that the first oil change should be after 1 month of break in, and then at 500 miles  or more often in dirty conditions and cooler weather, so my read was -"more often is better"

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the idea of the transfer pump.  That sure would reduce the mess of a drip pan.  Just pump it into an old container.    Those pumps are dirt cheap on Amazon or at Harbor Freight.  I use a battery one to pump gas to my tractor.  I was always spilling from a 5 gal container and 15 bucks changed all that.

SIDE NOTE:  I wonder if this thread could be moved to the Massimo section of the Forum?  There's some good info here.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mackc said:

Ha - I did a search earlier and saw that one.  I just put it in my cart.

To be clear, you do not remove the drain plug, you just do that extra 1/2 quart "rinse / remove" to get out any residual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/6/2020 at 1:44 PM, j.fulciniti said:

Ha - I did a search earlier and saw that one.  I just put it in my cart.

To be clear, you do not remove the drain plug, you just do that extra 1/2 quart "rinse / remove" to get out any residual.

Yes, I did NOT remove the oil drain plug, and YES, since I didn't remove the drain plug and was going to have a half of a Qt of oil leftover I decided it was prudent to use it as a rinse . (The half of a quart only cost $2.35 )

Well today I buttoned up the Buck 400 after the oil change,   The old oil was really black and  and a little over a quart was sucked out at about 150 degrees F after warming the engine up for 10 minutes. Then I added the 1/2 Qt of oil for the rinse. the engine was still warm and the pump pumped almost all of the 1/2 rinse Quart out.

I did have time for a test ride. I warmed the engine up at an idle for a couple minutes while checking for anything falling off or any leaks, everything is okay, I had a bit of jerking backing out of the shop and then in high gear for a couple of starts and stops then it started smoothing out,  well as  smooth as can can be expected, as the clutch has to have enough RPMs to spin up and engage  the drive. after a half mile ride and a complete stop and start it is doing okay.   the odometer showed 207 and I reckon in the area of 20 to 30 hours before this it's first  oil change. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Jerrys500
      I wouldn't say that after a year of owning this thing, that I would go out and buy one again. Certainly one that was used and abused, but at the time I needed something and this was in my price range. I could tell that it would need some work. I however didn't know the half of it. This was my second UTV. The first one was and older American Sportsworks Carbide 7150 that was a total piece of junk. I got it for next to nothing and was a project piece. I got it running and rode it for a bit but it was way not what i needed and it finally burned up and was set aside. Anyways, so I bought this one from a farmer. I'm not positive of the exact model but it originally came from Tractor Supply. per the stickers on the bed and its a camo color. Upon first inspection when I got it home, it was a mess.
      1. Had a water leak - The leak was in two hoses one of which was a short one that came from the rear of the engine and I literally ended up cutting it off. Well getting another one on there took hours and was simply horrible.
      2. Had an oil leak - This is my concern today as I was never able to figure out for sure what it was going to take to fix it. More on that in a min once you have a full account of where i've been in this thing.
      3. Had a bad clutch - Replacing the entirety of the clutch system wasn't all that bad except its a tight space to work in to do this repair. was a pain to figure out the angle that I needed to get the cover off and then back on again but figured it out the second day and got it done.
      4. Had bad Universal Joints - this was a nightmare because they originally put 18mm ujoints in the thing which I was not aware of so when my parts came in of course I had the 20mm that they started putting in, from what I can understand, was the very next year. Finding the 18mm ones was all but impossible so I bit the bullet and did the full conversion to the 20's.
      5. Had bad Tie Rods.  - Tie rods were not a problem. However while in there I noticed that it was a little low on brake fluid. The fluid that was in there looked fresh. Sure enough there was a line leak there so i had to get new lines for it. I almost just ordered the master cylinder at that time but had seen the  fluid coming from the other end and thought yeah it should  be ok. That was a stupid decision. Yet another parts order to get one. Once delivered it was not a prob just replace, fill, bleed and good to go.
      6. This was about the time the panic set in. I needed to check the other oils and the final gear oil was mostly empty and what was in there I'm still not was sure was gear lube. Luckily after clearing it out and refilling it, there didn't seem to be any issues with the final gear. So far that is.
      7. So at this point I figured that it was ready for my first trek with it to the  gold claim and off  we went. This was a 14 day venture in the middle of nowhere over 300 miles from home. I had tested it over the course of 5 days and except for the oil leak it looked like all was good with the exception of blowing a little smoke. Day two in the sticks it decided to just die on us out of the blue. I checked the spark and it wasn't there anymore. The plug wire had come apart. I made one that worked until I could get a replacement. It still wouldn't start but I was getting spark. ended having to remove the fuel pump and clean it up. I then had to pull the fuel injector. I don't know why it ran when it did. It took over 4 hours of running brake parts cleaner and air through it before I could get any fuel to go through it. Luckily after that most of a day delay, I'm glad to report that it did its job rather nicely for the remainder of the trip.
      8. After that ordeal and in the neighborhood of about $800 or so for parts and oils and all it looked a little brighter. I did still have not only the oil leak to fix, it started blowing more and more smoke. I keep the oil up but it uses quite a bit. if used in a whole day I'm adding at least a half quart. Its made three trips now in this described state. The only new things are that it has gotten very difficult to shift which is likely that pair of shifting gears, the blowing of smoke that is almost for sure a sign that I have to rebuild the top end including the top end kit and do the valves at the same time. Now the oil leak. 
      So this leak I don't quite know the part names but it is coming out from around the shaft coming from the front of the engine. My diagram does not seem to show that there is a bearing in there but I would think there has to be. So I can't order a part that doesn't seem to exist. Now the part I still can't figure out is am I going to have to pull the motor and split the case to do this repair or with the four bolts in the housing will this pop out into my hand and be a simple replacement? Of course after removing that shaft which of its own was no fun because of the requirement of almost having to remove the entire differential to get it out.
      Sorry for the lengthy story but I think that it shows some of the pain of these things. I grew up riding dirt bikes, motorcycles, and three and four wheelers and I can say that none of them were ever as difficult to fix stuff as this Massimo is. Heck have done motorcycles from the frame up with modifications and it wasn't this difficult. Let me  qualify that statement, I'm speaking of Kawasaki, Honda, and Suzuki motorcycles only once did ever work on a Harley and thinking about it that was horrific as well.
       
      Thanks for any words of wisdom besides junk this crap for a 17k to 30k upgrade. Only cause I'm 5'9 and my wife of 40 plus years is 6'1 and told me that i can't have the Kawasaki Teryx 1000 that I drool over. Getting old has really curbed her desire to deal with my toys over these four decades....
      Thanks for listening I look forward to and replies... Jerry
       
    • By Goat Quilter
      We pout new belts cleaned engine and carburetor plugs you name it.  Drove down road no problem came back uphill no power won’t go . What’s the issue? 
       
      could it be clutch? 
       
      frustrated in shop more than in use on farm 
    • By Alex
      This is an interesting read. ADAS is main stream on cars these days. The technology looks to be headed towards UTVs and Off-Road Vehicles.
      Potential Motors and CFMOTO USA have announced a new partnership to integrate advanced driver-assist systems (ADAS) into recreational off-road vehicles for the first time.
      Sam Poirier, CEO and co-founder at Potential Motors, says the integration of its technology into CFMOTO’s vehicles will set new standards in the side-by-side segment. (Photo: Potential Motors Inc.) The partnership will first see Potential’s tech integrated into CFMOTO test vehicles. The companies will conduct extensive real-world testing at Potential’s purpose-built off-road proving ground in Fredericton, Canada, and CFMOTO facilities.
      Source: https://powersportsbusiness.com/top-stories/2023/12/19/cfmoto-and-potential-motors-announce-industry-first-adas-technology-for-ohvs/
    • By weasel
      starts up you have keep rpms up for 5 minutes till it warms up then runs fine. But if it stalls wont start unless you unplug fuel pump and hold it to the floor till it starts then plug pump back in and run it till it warms up then it is fine all day.
    • By Wesley
      I have a 2022 500 Hisun product, I have had them in the past. I change my oil myself and trying to drain through the hole where I remove the plug is a mess.  How does everyone keep the belly pan clean during the oil and filter service?
       
      Wes Jackson
×
×
  • Create New...