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What do you do when


Travis
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12 hours ago, T-boss 410 said:

Joe, you're the only person I've ever known to be pissed that your machine was running well 😉

I know . right.. its running great and it just PISSES ME OFF!..lol.... oh, did I mention the high pitch whine  has healed itself and is gone?  lol  damn it 

Edited by Joe Breaux
dropped my beer
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1 hour ago, cliffyk said:

Joe, I likely overreacted--it is a topic I am a bit peevish about--on Labor Day of 2019 the family had a celebration of my  accomplishment when my drunken 27-year-old step-grandson¹ stood in the centre of it all, and declared for all to hear;  that he "didn't think it was that big a deal"

His mother ad father very nearly died right there on the spot.

My wife says I bring it up too often--she's probably right (why are they so damned right so often?)--but for me it represents the likely "end posts" of nearly 50 years of work and aspiration--it is an accomplishment I am quite, and no doubt overly; proud of...

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

¹ - Whose life accomplishment after dropping out of UCF is being a part-time barmaid at Starbucks in Orlando.

no worries.. and  kids these days are not taught to respect hard work and achievements.. They think its just owed to them simply for being here .i worked every day I could since I was 13.. I am comfortably retired.. They can all kiss my ass 

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4 hours ago, Travis said:

Hope so. i wish there was a test for the switch , like you can  test the circuit relay, but the keyswitch is all sealed up, and no testing procedures are listed in the manual.

Your wiring diagram provides the ignition switch  contact "rules" for its various positions--you can test it by checking continuity with an Ohmmeter as shown below:

Connect the Ohmmeter to the wires/terminals as shown and check the resistance with the key in the indicated position--it should be 0.0 Ω or no more than 0.2 Ω.. This procedure tests the switch at low voltage and current as used by the ohmmeter, however it will be a valid indicator of the switch's functioning properly...

Note: this test is performed with the switch NOT plugged into to the vehicle.

MuleIgnition.jpg.d3e244d9f3de9cb96a92ba786f820aa9.jpg

In "OFF" there should be 0.0 Ω between the black/yellow and white/black wires

In "ON" there should be 0.0 Ω between the brown and white wires

In "START" there should be 0.0 Ω between the black/white and brown, black/white and white, and brown and white.

The "OFF" position connection of the black/yellow and white/black wires grounds the ECU when the switch is off--a safety precaution against static discharge no doubt.

-cliff-

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7 hours ago, cliffyk said:

Your wiring diagram provides the ignition switch  contact "rules" for its various positions--you can test it by checking continuity with an Ohmmeter as shown below:

Connect the Ohmmeter to the wires/terminals as shown and check the resistance with the key in the indicated position--it should be 0.0 Ω or no more than 0.2 Ω.. This procedure tests the switch at low voltage and current as used by the ohmmeter, however it will be a valid indicator of the switch's functioning properly...

Note: this test is performed with the switch NOT plugged into to the vehicle.

MuleIgnition.jpg.d3e244d9f3de9cb96a92ba786f820aa9.jpg

In "OFF" there should be 0.0 Ω between the black/yellow and white/black wires

In "ON" there should be 0.0 Ω between the brown and white wires

In "START" there should be 0.0 Ω between the black/white and brown, black/white and white, and brown and white.

The "OFF" position connection of the black/yellow and white/black wires grounds the ECU when the switch is off--a safety precaution against static discharge no doubt.

-cliff-

👍 Smartypants 😉

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The white-brown contacts provide (via the brown wire) +12V power to the lights, horn, brake lights, and the coil of the starter relay. 2.3 Ω is quite high , did thet measurement "include" the corroded connector?

A  modest 2 A load through that 2.3 Ω resistance would produce a 4.6 V voltage drop--leaving just 8.0 V (of  a fully charged battery's 12.6 V) to "do the job".

Obviously the corroded terminal needs to be replaced. In doing so make sure the wire is clean and shiny, and use some dielectric grease (SuperLube's PTFE grease is very good for this)--$6. at Home Depot--to "pot" then connection. Make sure you use a good crimping tool also, like this "full compression" tool from HF:

 

HFRatchetCrimpTool-01.jpg.dd5a90408b2dc6ad00c2d1eef62b81f0.jpg

 

CrimpTool-Compression-01.jpg.c00372b24d7a4a607c5b80b283062da3.jpg

FullCompressionCrimps-00.thumb.jpg.d3d9e98abf2b01148a7afcec94e4cd7d.jpg

This tool will create very reliable connections unlike those tools that just "squash" the terminal ferrule.

.CrimpTool-Squash-01.jpg.8f8632ab8615e90af32def8629878365.jpg

I suspect your recent manipulations of the wiring disturbed some poor connections and made them conduct. This is not uncommon, in emergency situations it can be, and has been for many, a viable action to get going again,,,

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Yes, that included the  presumed corroded terminal, i've got some good crimpers from Northern Tool, they've done good.

I'm kind of confused though, as all the wires go into a plastic connector with the  male terminals on one side, Female terminals on the other,

Not quite sure how to remove it.

 

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sometimes there's a plastic tab on the body, or a metal tab on the terrminal that lock things in place--however more and more in the modern world the terminals are moulded into the plastic body and not removable. I fall back to Q-tips ,toothpicks, a suitable solvent, and elbow grease on those.

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That looks like a good candidate for some aerosol contact cleaner, Q-tips, toothpicks and conpressed air.

However I have on occasion poked around a bit inside the body with a dental probe and been able to find something that would release the terminals in connectors like that--typically they pull out from what is the bottom in your photo (the "business end")--there are specialty tools for disassembling these things. Search for "Tool Disassemble electrical connectors" on Amazon. I had a set years ago and it worked great on the connectors it fit, but as is common with real world perversity, most of the connectors I wanted to take apart were ones none of the "keys" fit.

Sometimes there is a plastic locking tab holding the terminals into the body.

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Often we have to forget about the ways things were, and make 'em better. Will the connection point for the switch's harness accept  plain ol' 1/4" or 3/16" male spade terminals? Can I say that or should I say "terminals of colour" (TOC)?

If so you could ditch the connector body and put new male terminals on each wire and connect them individually? It won't be as convenient, however you will be making sure ALL the terminals are crimped properly, and properly bedded in dielectric grease so the corrosion does not happen again.  

The main fuse block 30 A "accessory" section on my 2003 Suzuki Burgman 400 burned up, it was over $100 for a replacement--so I just bypassed the whole thing with an inline fuse:

K3400MainFuseBypass-01.thumb.jpg.e8809f69e96b6b3ada25ce64b3882a7d.jpg

Sometimes you have to think on the other side of the box...

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21 minutes ago, Travis said:

good news is, i haven't stumbled or fallen getting  into the Mule yet...  :lol:

good thing theres no stairs to get in . I hear stairs are getting pretty trickey now.. everybody is falling down on them . sometimes as many as THREE times ..lol

Edited by Joe Breaux
fell on stairs
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15 minutes ago, Joe Breaux said:

good thing theres no stairs to get in . I hear stairs are getting pretty trickey now.. everybody is falling down on them . sometimes as many as THREE times ..lol

Did it strike you as  odd that not a single aide or SS agent rushed in to assist? It's almost as though they are hoping he'd break his neck, so Camela can take over (my most recent recurrent nightmare)..

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2 hours ago, cliffyk said:

Did it strike you as  odd that not a single aide or SS agent rushed in to assist? It's almost as though they are hoping he'd break his neck, so Camela can take over (my most recent recurrent nightmare)..

Well he did call her PRESIDENT harris this week... Tho he could not remember the former generals name.." who is the head of that outfit over there ".. lol....nor could he remember the 2 women officers names he was promoting to 4 Stars  recomended by that general he couldnt remember, ,  which was the reason for the press announcement he was attending ????  ...... Our enemies must be ROFLTAO seeing an old feebleminded clumsy baffoon as our leader ...we have never looked weaker since the days of the peanut farmer in chief 

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1 hour ago, cliffyk said:

Did it strike you as  odd that not a single aide or SS agent rushed in to assist? It's almost as though they are hoping he'd break his neck, so Camela can take over (my most recent recurrent nightmare)..

What? You don't think that Heels Up Harris would make a good President?

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6 hours ago, cliffyk said:

If it comes down to it you could toss the connector completely and use butt or better yet, barrel (bullet) connectors that can be easily disconnected if needed--though the latter seem to have fallen out of fashion, I  no longer see them in the auto parts stores...

I forgot, that keyswitch i ordered was delivered today while i was gone, for the heck of it, i'll put that on, and keep the Original as spare back up and fix up that connector.

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