Quantcast
Jump to content


What do you do when


Go to solution Solved by Travis,

Recommended Posts

Posted

LMAO    can you imagine the Media coverage if it had been Trump tripping three times?  Instead , most news IGNORES IT, and we get ABC reporter saying  how.. "endearing it was to see him get right back up and salute".... really?  looked pretty EMBARRASSING to me 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Welp, almost 2 weeks with no problems, went to go grab some firewood and it clicked 3 times. However i did notice the circuit relay was a bit loose and i pushed it up into the plug a bit further. so maybe that was it. maybe. i doubt it though. Murphy's law is the law of my life.

It did fine for 2 starts afterwards. So i guess we'll see over the next few days if it persists.

The thing i hate most is it's so freaking random.

 

EDIT:

I took a look at the new connector i put on the trigger wire at the solenoid, the dadgum wire pulled right out of it..... I got a new connector  crimped on their now and melted some solder down from the top.

Posted
21 minutes ago, Travis said:

Welp, almost 2 weeks with no problems, went to go grab some firewood and it clicked 3 times. However i did notice the circuit relay was a bit loose and i pushed it up into the plug a bit further. so maybe that was it. maybe. i doubt it though. Murphy's law is the law of my life.

It did fine for 2 starts afterwards. So i guess we'll see over the next few days if it persists.

The thing i hate most is it's so freaking random.

 

EDIT:

I took a look at the new connector i put on the trigger wire at the solenoid, the dadgum wire pulled right out of it..... I got a new connector  crimped on their now and melted some solder down from the top.

Random almost always = loose/corroded or otherwise poor connection, mechanical things (switches, relays, solenoids. etc.) usually either work or they don't.

  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, cliffyk said:

Random almost always = loose/corroded or otherwise poor connection, mechanical things (switches, relays, solenoids. etc.) usually either work or they don't.

if it persists, ill replace the female connectors at the Ignition switch (harness side)  and Relay. (Or when i get free time)

Posted
2 hours ago, Joe Breaux said:

those females are always trouble... but they are a lot of fun...heh heh heh 

But, they always work best when they are good and tight...

Posted
21 minutes ago, Joe Breaux said:

Oh, didnt you hear? The CANCEL Culture has now been CANCELLED !!  lol  Too many cancellations.. 

that would be nice.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Acted up some again today....

 so while i held the key in start, i kind of fumbled around with the ignition switch wires, on the Wiring harness side plug (female connectors which im about to replace) and i got one of the wires in a certain position once and it cranked over, but i couldn't get it to do it again. but where the plug in is, you have to have small hands to get to it.... maybe i need to fly someone from Kawasaki over here to reach back in there.

Posted

20210413_190338.thumb.jpg.82b496eee2b0a6db53ab53913bdafc61.jpgYou can see obvious corrosion in the top right terminal

 That is where the white wire, which is fused and carries power from the battery to the keyswitch.

I did a resistance test on that 1 terminal, some instances it would show 0 resistance, and if i moved it some it it would vary from 3 to 9ohms , and a few times no continuity at all.

Posted

Here's what it looks like now, I put dielectric grease where the wire goes into the crimp terminal. I ran out and I want to put some on the blade connectors themselves. Then heatshrink each individual wire.

I also may try to find a big piece of heatshrink to seal this whole unit.

16183596388417785354720701584409.jpg

Posted
34 minutes ago, Travis said:

Heh, never knew crimping the end of those would help hold. 

Learn something new everyday.

It was new to me less than a year ago--didn't know that plastic could be crimped...

Posted

Went to o'reilly's and got some dielectric grease, i went ahead and cut off the plastic connector from the new  Chinese ignition switch, since the same corroding can and will happen in it anyway, so i got some quick disconnects and plugged each wire in individually,  also greased the wire where it crimps and where the 2 connectors connect. and then put some waterproof heatshrink over each connection and wrapped it in electrical tape tightly to "dress" it up a little bit.

 

Posted
3 minutes ago, cliffyk said:

It looks good--I think you accomplished a lot of improvement!

and hopefully a fix.

still mad at  joe breaux, he never brought the duct tape :lol: :D 

Posted
8 minutes ago, Joe Breaux said:

got it right here buddy ... but streets are flooded here , got 6 inches of rain in one afternoon,  cant get out unless I crank up the AIRBOAT ..

Airboat ain't made by massimo, is it? LOL ;) 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well darn.

after doing the ignition plug in's all nice and pretty and the plugs for the  circuit relay, i went this evening, turn the key, Click. turn the key, Click,, turn the key, Click. Turn the key, VROOM, starts right up.

 It then occured to me one connection i had neglected to change was the one that goes back to the neutral safety switch on the trans. looking at the wiring diagram, my interpretation is it acts like a ground for the starting circuit. so i cleaned it up, and put a new ring terminal on it.

we'll see.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Frank in MI
      Thanks for accepting me!
      Haven't got a side by side yet, but have been shopping.   
      Any advice welcome & I am on a limited budget, so haven't decided yet on new or used.
       
    • By rev6engines
      Black Friday is here, and we’re excited to give our offroad family 20% off on all parts and kits! Whether you're prepping for new trails or just fine-tuning your rig, we've got what you need to keep rolling. Now Is also a great time to upgrade your sled, winter's coming fast!
      If you have any questions or need help finding the right part, feel free to call, text, or email us. We’re here for you!
      Call or Text:
      801) 489-8697
      Email at:
      [email protected]
       
      Happy riding!!! 🤘

    • By Eagle Mountain Outfitters
      Our R&D team just finished the first unit and wanted to show you guys. Need more cargo space without losing the functionality of being able to fold down the seat to use the full bed? Eagle Mountain Outfitters, the maker of the original metal UTV roof, has designed a foldable rear cargo basket to meet your needs. Price is $625 + $30 shipping.  If you have any question's, please reach out to me at [email protected]
       

    • By Jon Spruill
      Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...