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What do you do when


Go to solution Solved by Travis,

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Posted
9 hours ago, Travis said:

It's made by Arrowhead, $80.00, they're not top of the line  (Like Denso) but it's better than Wee Fewl Yu from china.

lol  Wee Fewl Yu  brand ...lol  is that a division of  Trickem Dickem and Howe ?

  • Haha 1
Posted

Well, that ain't actually a good thing, is it? Still being manufactured by kids with inadequate materials and poor (if any) quality control, unless Arrowhead has someone there who keeps a close eye on the process. 

Posted
6 hours ago, T-boss 410 said:

Well, that ain't actually a good thing, is it? Still being manufactured by kids with inadequate materials and poor (if any) quality control, unless Arrowhead has someone there who keeps a close eye on the process. 

amen brother!

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Posted

Travis, have you checked for internal corrosion in the battery cable? Sometimes they get corroded, and unless the outer sleeve partly exposes the bare wire, it can be otherwise impossible to see. That severely limits the amount of current that's available to the starter. It would still work great on the bench. But not have enough current available under load. It's a longshot, but it does happen. 

As to rebuilding the old starter. You can use the new starter that didn't work out, as a donor. No rebuild kit needed, and just reuse the factory, heavy duty armature. 

Posted

the starter spins the engine over with no problem at all, it's just getting it to engage with the flywheel, the outer sleeve of the big + is partly exposed at the starter end, the copper wire looks brand new there.

I'll have to get a recording of what it does, it's usually "click, click, click, (finally engages and turns over) and when the starter gear is retracting, something makes a awful noise, sounds like cat stuck in a fan or something. it doesn't sound like gears grinding, but something rubbing or catching in the starter.

Posted

Do you know if anyone has been into the engine before?  Check the flywheel.   Or maybe the flywheel was installed backwards from the factory.  BillStMax (YouTuber) was working on a tractor and he mentioned that the flywheel has the gear teeth beveled on one side, not beveled on the other side.  It's not much of a bevel, but just enough.  That bevel is to allow the Bendix to more easily engage the flywheel.  I know, it's a long shot.

Posted
1 hour ago, Dan B said:

Do you know if anyone has been into the engine before?  Check the flywheel.   Or maybe the flywheel was installed backwards from the factory.  BillStMax (YouTuber) was working on a tractor and he mentioned that the flywheel has the gear teeth beveled on one side, not beveled on the other side.  It's not much of a bevel, but just enough.  That bevel is to allow the Bendix to more easily engage the flywheel.  I know, it's a long shot.

I rebuilt the engine 2 years ago, and installed a new kawasaki flywheel as the old ones teeth were wore pretty bad. and the flywheel can only go on one way as it houses the magnets for the alternator.

 

Posted
13 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

Is Arrowhead the exclusive manufacturer of starters for small engines, or are they a rebuilding company?

manufacturer

they make small engine stuff all the way to car alternators etc.

Posted

One thing i noticed, this starter gear, I can move it by hand clock wise or counter clockwise. I couldn't on the other one. And that what allows the gears to mesh is the movement CW or CCw

Posted
13 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

So the other starter was binding up? Did you install the new one yet? Just curious about how different it is. 

no, i will probably install it later tonight, need to use the mule for a few things today.

but the new start gear and shaft will spin both ways, the old starter i noticed previously, it would only spin one way. so i guess it not being able to rotate opposite of the shaft rotation is probably causing binding.

we'll find out,

Posted
On 11/14/2020 at 7:37 PM, Travis said:

I have no idea what to do...

started up great 3 times, then click click click click.

I get 12.75 volts at the trigger wire, and 12.75 volts at the + post on the solenoid  (drops to just above 12v when starting) with the key in the start position. If it were the relay i doubt i would get full battery voltage on the trigger wire.

i do not think its the neutral switch since when i put in F or R with the key in the start position the solenoid clicks back since power is cut to it, then clicks again when i put it back to neutral.

 I even re-tested the starter circuit relay, it checks out good.

 

Actually a full battery should show 13.6   +or-    VDC so you are ok, just need to use a load battery checker to see if your battery puts out the volts and amps it is supposed to.

Posted

got the new starter on, i turned it over about 20 times for a second or two at a time as to not burn out a new starter, lol, and it never clicked once, spun it right up everytime!!

and this is the first starter i've ever purchased that came with a Quality control PASS paper.

I'm glad this is all behind me, this new starter sounds so much better than that old POS.

But here's what i've been saying to myself the last month or so, " it could be worse, Travis. I could have a Massimo" LOL

 

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