Quantcast
Jump to content


What do you do when


Go to solution Solved by Travis,

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

Are those cables very elaborate? I considered making my own, but I don't have the correct gauge wire. 

the negative is just a a regular cable, coated with rubber.

 the + cable has a white wire made onto it that has a diode and 20 amp main fuse that goes to the keyswitch.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Travis said:

Okay, that cable i have on hand will work perfectly, ends are sealed too. i cut a strip of black heat shrink tube and put on it so i won't cross them up.

They sell pre made cables at tractor supply. All different lengths. But marking the ground...that works too. Good luck!

Posted
2 minutes ago, kenfain said:

They sell pre made cables at tractor supply. All different lengths. But marking the ground...that works too. Good luck!

Really?! i've never seen any cables at my TSC, in Willis or Conroe... i'll have to look closer

Posted
44 minutes ago, Travis said:

Really?! i've never seen any cables at my TSC, in Willis or Conroe... i'll have to look closer

They're on the wall by the batteries. Along with the battery accessory stuff. They're generic lengths, sold by inches. So know how long you need it to be. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

just now, i took off the flywheel housing, so i can see the ring gear and starter gear, whenever the starter clicks, there is no sign of outward movement of the starter gear..

so it's something internally in the starter i think...but what?

also read something interesting,  bad cables  can (of course deliver lower amperage) and that can burn out solenoids.....

 

Posted

Since you're replacing the cables, and you have a known good solenoid. That's a good starting point for finding your problem. You should be seeing that new multimeter soon. New parts, and a few quick tests, should start getting some answers. 

Unfortunately I have no idea what is considered normal amp draw for yours, (or mine either). 

You should be able to get that same information from the internet, or maybe the manufacturer, hopefully on their website. 

Posted

I guess that if the starter wasn't being supplied with enough current, that it wouldn't kick the gear out to engage the flywheel, but it would be enough to spin the motor.  But unfortunately, these days you just can't trust that parts will function properly for a long period of time. 

If you remove the starter and hook it up to a known good battery, does it kick the gear out?

Posted
27 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

I guess that if the starter wasn't being supplied with enough current, that it wouldn't kick the gear out to engage the flywheel, but it would be enough to spin the motor.  But unfortunately, these days you just can't trust that parts will function properly for a long period of time. 

If you remove the starter and hook it up to a known good battery, does it kick the gear out?

 

I'm not pulling that starter off until i get the new cable.

I'm almost ready to screw it and live with it.

Posted
45 minutes ago, kenfain said:

Since you're replacing the cables, and you have a known good solenoid. That's a good starting point for finding your problem. You should be seeing that new multimeter soon. New parts, and a few quick tests, should start getting some answers. 

Unfortunately I have no idea what is considered normal amp draw for yours, (or mine either). 

You should be able to get that same information from the internet, or maybe the manufacturer, hopefully on their website. 

me either, all i know kawasaki  recommends (stock) a 235CCA battery, and i have a 270 in it.

Posted

here's something to chew on! Lol

wouldn't start earlier, clicked about 40 times.. this time, I went from the + on the solenoid and unplugged where the trigger wire goes, and shorted from the big + to trigger tab, and it fired right up.

 That big + has more amps than that little wire...

Sooo is for some reason, i am not getting enough amperage through the trigger to retract the solenoid completely, SOMETIMES? Or is it in the starter causing it need to more amperage to retract the solenoid SOMETIMES.?

Posted

Okay, i put the spare solenoid on, (of course i had to remove the starter to do that ) so while the starter was on the bench, i hooked up a good battery to it. and it spun up every time HOWEVER, the way i'm triggering the solenoid is jumping from the + (alot of amps) to the trigger tab with a 18 gauge wire.

Now, i did clean up the starter  gear and clutch and WD 40'd it, and that seemed to help a little bit, it turned it over a few times before it started clicking again, back on the mule.

Of course i've read about the starter needing shimmed and what not, but i highly doubt that it's the case as the starter worked great  for a month and a half before any problems occured.

Teeth were in good shape also.

 

 

Posted

Okay, here's what's happening.

i removed the flywheel housing again, and whenever the starter clicks, it only moves, maybe a 1/8" of an inch?  It isn't hitting the flywheel and stopping, it's just bare moving.

i'll try to record a video.

Posted

Is the cable the same gauge from the battery to the starter? Sounds like something is dropping the amps from the battery to the solenoid. I don't understand how your starter works, since it doesn't have a bendix to push the gear out to contact the flywheel. But if it was working properly after installing the new one, I would have to believe that it was something internal with the starter. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

Is the cable the same gauge from the battery to the starter? Sounds like something is dropping the amps from the battery to the solenoid. I don't understand how your starter works, since it doesn't have a bendix to push the gear out to contact the flywheel. But if it was working properly after installing the new one, I would have to believe that it was something internal with the starter. 

scrap what i said in the last post.

Posted

Okay, i was able to contort my body into a position where i could see the flywheel gear much better. and used the weight of a pair of vice grips to hold the key in START. i then got a screwdriver and moved the flywheel a hair, and when i say HAIR, i mean a HAIR.. and the starter kicked over and engaged and spun the engine.

Now 2 things, Is it a issue with the flywheel teeth,

Or:

The clutch on the starter gear is designed to spin freely 1 way, and spin the motor the way that allows the gear to move independently of the shaft so it can mesh with the teeth on the flywheel, then it spins the engine over. SO I DON'T FREAKING KNOW

 

OR is the starter not getting enough amperage to overcome that friction???

 

Posted

Another thing,  from the factory the starter comes with 2 holes in it on the bottom. One hole is plugged. The other is not. I just wonder if fine dust from riding is getting in there and over a period of starts wears on the support shaft bushing surfaces and wears them to the point where the shaft isn't aligned with the ring gear on the fly wheel.

Posted
1 hour ago, T-boss 410 said:

Is the cable the same gauge from the battery to the starter? Sounds like something is dropping the amps from the battery to the solenoid. I don't understand how your starter works, since it doesn't have a bendix to push the gear out to contact the flywheel. But if it was working properly after installing the new one, I would have to believe that it was something internal with the starter. 

Solenoid shift. there is a piece that the solenoid clips to, that piece is attached to the starter gear, when the solenoid retracts, that causes the bottom of the piece to move the opposite direction pushing the starter gear outwards.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Grant
      I recently bought an axis 500 and it’s missing a box or something the plug is L shaped I’ve looked through the wiring diagrams and still can’t figure it out. The plug is located right near the battery housing 

    • By rsar
      Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone pressure washes their Mule underbody. Three years in, I have yet to do this. I'm worried that the pressure washer could damage or dislodge something but it's gotten to the point that it could use a bath. Any thoughts?
    • By TjB
      My dad has recently acquired a 2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel powered. It worked fine  few weeks and then quit driving. Put a new belt on just to see. Still not driving. It already had a new clutch. Belt turns when in drive or reverse and back wheels are off ground to test. But wheels not turning. Thoughts? 
    • By Will D
      Hello, I have a mule 4010 trans that appeared to overheat based on the temperature light on the dash and it went into limp mode.  No steam though.  After letting it cool and the next day, I drove it around quite a bit and it did not have any problems.  Any ideas on this.  Do thermostats work intermittently?  I would like to fix the problem, looking for advice.  Many thanks 
    • By rsar
      So I finally got my Quad Gear cab enclosure after waiting out the backorder for three months and to say it's been a huge disappointment is a pretty big understatement. I think mostly because I could make it work, if not for one major issue. The windshield is right next to impossible to see out of. It's a real headscratcher because the side and rear windows are okay. It's not high quality 30 or 40 gauge marine vinyl but I have Quad Gear's stand-alone winshield so I knew it wasn't the best in terms of visibility, but definitely doable for the price.  Incredibly, the side and rear windows of the cab eclosure are just as clear as the stand-alone windshield. And the windshield on the enclosure is like 50 percent worse than the stand-alone. It's the same company! I don't get it. If it had just been the rear windshield that was that bad I would have kept it. There are some creases and wrinkles here and there, but I've been using the stand-alone  windshield for the past three months so it's good enough not to have to shell out $600 plus for the stock hard windshield. I'd put visibility at about 65- 70 percent. The wife hates it though, which is a pretty big negative. In any case, my original plans were to have an upholsterer change the crappy vinyl out for the high quality stuff and I even sent it to a guy who ended up flaking out on me and refusing to do it. He said he didn't want to charge me $400 for something I paid $200 for.  Long story, short, I decided to return it and just get the insanely expensive Kawasaki enclosure next winter since the frigid temps here are about to start climbing in a couple weeks anyway. I first put it on just to see how it would look (I took pics of course) and found that it didnt even seal 100 percent and made it drafty inside the cab. So make that two major issues. At least with the stock enclosure everything will be top flight. Doors will be nice too.




×
×
  • Create New...