QLINK Starting Problems

[Mark Popeye]

Hi,  Just purchased a 2010 Qlink Frontrunner 700.  Using it to plow my yard (just moved back to NH).  I knew it had starting issues but that was mostly around the starter relay (as shown, when I was looking at it).  I rewired (and soldered) the 4 wires that go to relay, replaced the relay, starter and battery.  It still starts extremely hard but runs great.  I don't know what else to check.  On another topic, which way do wheel hub nuts turn to loosen?  TIA.

[Travis]

If it's an Overhead valve engine, excessive valve lash will cause hard starting, lash is the distance between the Rocker arm end and the top of the valve, usually ranges anywhere from .004" to .020" depending on the machine.

Also the cables can be the issue, clean both ends of the ground cable, and Positive cable.

[Mark Popeye]

How hard is this to repair?  As a DIYer, should I even attempt this?

 

[Travis]

one thing i would do is remove the spark plug(s) and then crank it over, if it cranks easier with the plugs out, 98%  of the time  it's the valve lash.

Adjusting the valves is a fairly easy process, just depends on what all is covering the valve cover. I did find the contact info for the company so you might can ask them what they think too, [email protected]

[Mark Popeye]

It doesn't say OHV on the valve cover.  Easy enough to remove it.  3 valves.  One cylinder.  Can I just pull the plug wire off or do I have to remove plug?

 

[Travis]

remove the spark plug, then try to start it, if it spins strong, then most likely the valves are out of adjustment making cranking hard.

now this is on a briggs engine, but the concept is the same,

 

[Mark Popeye]

Pulled plug and did the test.  Spun no problem.  Put plug back in and it started right up.  Did it a few more times and went back to usual.  I watched this video before but I have 3 valves and not sure how or where to get feeler gauge in.  Also, trying to find clearances is a PIA.  

[Travis]

Hmm, kind of odd for it to start well a few times, then back to hard cranking....

[Mark Popeye]

Ideas?

[Travis]

not that i can think of...

[kenfain]

When you say hard starting, you're talking about extended cranking time, right? Is this thing fuel injection, or carburetor?

[Mark Popeye]

So, I met someone who says it's not a valve problem, seeing that it runs fine.  Said it's a grounding problem.  I spent the day checking founds and still nothing.  Frustrating.  Told the wife if we get it fixed, I'm cutting my losses and dumping it.  Stick with a brand name.

[Mark Popeye]

@kenfain Carbureted.  

[Mark Popeye]

So, I fixed a vacuum hose on carb and it appears to be starting a little better.  We'll see in morning if it still does start. The video posted is what it's doing now, which is a lot better than before.  

[kenfain]

On 11/1/2020 at 6:58 AM, Mark Popeye said:

How hard is this to repair?  As a DIYer, should I even attempt this?

 

Nah, it's no big deal here. You got this. Unless you really want to go riding, and don't care to spend the time to learn about it. Believe me, I totally understand if you took it to the shop. 

But I think that based on what you've posted so far. That it's not that bad. It really sounds like a fuel problem, from the earlier posts. Has this machine been sitting unused for awhile, prior to the current issues?

Because sitting unused is the biggest problem for all my carbureted engines. The good news, is that a carb rebuild is cheap enough. 

I prefer a carburetor. When they're running good, everything is fine, with less maintenance. If you like that buggy, don't sell it yet. Because, unless your replacement buggy is new, or almost new. You'll be wishing you had this one back. 

Finding the problem only takes a little detective work. First off, buy a can of cheap starting fluid. I get mine from Walmart. When you get ready, we'll be here to help. 

As to the lug nuts, there's a 99.999% chance that any lug nut will be standard. Left will loosen it, right to tighten. There are vehicles in the world that have other thread directions. But a s×s isn't one of those. 

 

[kenfain]

1 hour ago, Mark Popeye said:

So, I met someone who says it's not a valve problem, seeing that it runs fine.  Said it's a grounding problem.  I spent the day checking founds and still nothing.  Frustrating.  Told the wife if we get it fixed, I'm cutting my losses and dumping it.  Stick with a brand name.

Sorry, I didn't see this before I posted above. 

Grounding problems are a thing. And they create some real headaches because they're a sometimes problem, but they're always invisible. Making them tougher to find. 

I solve those by finding the ground, remove it, and wire brush all contact surfaces. That's still no guarantee, but like cleaning the battery terminals, I consider it as normal maintenance. 

As I said in my previous post, I think that it's a fuel/air issue. Most likely the carburetor. Based on your earlier posts.

Sorry, but I don't have the ability to watch your posted video because of spotty, and slow internet. 

[Mark Popeye]

Well, in my quest to check all my grounds, I noticed a large, vacuum line (off carb), with split ends.  I must have bumped it because I couldn't keep the UTV running.  I realized it was carb/fuel related, so I grabbed some tape and temp fixed the hose ends.  It's starting better than before.  Gonna see how it is in the morning.  I also see that it could use a new fuel filter.   Not sure how long it was sitting before but I'm gonna look at all the vacuum/type hoses.  

[kenfain]

I'd Replace all air, and fuel lines, hoses, filters, plugs and wires too. Of course you'll check the function with each new hose, belt, whatever. Along with new gas, I'd add some fuel stabilizer. I use it year round, because its cheap enough. Specific radiator hoses are typically a bit pricey, so those can wait...for now. Your okay plowing the yard if a hose breaks. But if you ever take it on the trails, then I'd replace those hoses as soon as possible after this other issue gets solved.

What you're likely dealing with, is a combination of things. Most, if not all, from the sound of it, are from lack of proper periodic maintenance. I'd do this first, since it needs to be done anyway. 

Besides, you might get lucky, and find the problem while you're doing this. 

[Mark Popeye]

I also seem to have something draining battery.  I ordered a kill switch, just to see.  The more I work on it, the less I want it.  We'll see how this goes.  Wasn't looking for another project, I have enough. LOL

[kenfain]

17 minutes ago, Mark Popeye said:

I also seem to have something draining battery.  I ordered a kill switch, just to see.  The more I work on it, the less I want it.  We'll see how this goes.  Wasn't looking for another project, I have enough. LOL

From the sound of it, I think you've got a bit of a project ahead. Just catching up on the scheduled maintenance, plus the overdue stuff, like the hoses, is a project in itself.

Have you made any progress on diagnosing the ignition? 

What about replacing the hoses?

[Mark Popeye]

I snipped the feed to radio.  Still starting up but not the best.  How does one check to make sure it's charging battery, when running?  Trying not to buy more unnecessary parts again.  Seems to fire up, at full charge.  That's why I'm installing a kill switch.  I want to see if anything's causing battery to drain, while not in use.  I need to get more fuel hoses to change out as well.  

[kenfain]

1 hour ago, Mark Popeye said:

I snipped the feed to radio.  Still starting up but not the best.  How does one check to make sure it's charging battery, when running?  Trying not to buy more unnecessary parts again.  Seems to fire up, at full charge.  That's why I'm installing a kill switch.  I want to see if anything's causing battery to drain, while not in use.  I need to get more fuel hoses to change out as well.  

To see if it's charging, you need to use a multimeter. Set it to read in the 20v range. 

Test at the battery while it's running. You should see at least 13.5v

[Mark Popeye]

So, pulling the 13.5v as tested and battery tested 13ish.  Was dead as a door nail yesterday.  Put the kill switch in and currently charging it again.  We'll see how it does, with power killed.  

[kenfain]

2 hours ago, Mark Popeye said:

So, pulling the 13.5v as tested and battery tested 13ish.  Was dead as a door nail yesterday.  Put the kill switch in and currently charging it again.  We'll see how it does, with power killed.  

If you're talking about a battery disconnect, that would probably work. You should take the battery to autozone also. Have them do a load test. The battery needs a full charge for this test.

[Mark Popeye]

Wondering if my cold cranking amps aren't enough.  I did verify that I purchased the correct battery.   Battery disconnect is functioning,  starting but still sluggish sometimes.  

[kenfain]

Does it act the same way if you add jumper cables? I'd wonder if the starter was pulling too many amps? Or if the positive cable had internal corrosion?

Because once it's warmed up, it should start right up. So I'd check the electrical possibilities, before I suspected a mechanical problem. 

Also, whatever is draining the battery overnight, could be substantial enough. That it's pulling enough amps away, to affect the starter, and how many amps that IT needs. Starters pull a lot of amps, and they don't like to share. Eventually, you'll absolutely have to find out what's draining the battery overnight anyway. I'd probably make that my first priority. 

[Mark Popeye]

If I add jumper cables (at least the last time I did), it fired right up.   https://www.walmart.com/ip/UPG-12V-35Ah-AGM-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-UB12350-U1-Group/168009742   This is the battery I recently purchased (This is the one Qlink said went with mine).  Wondering if it's not strong enough.  Even with disconnect utilized, I still seem to be having starting problems.  I guess I could replace the positive cable.  Was thinking about taking battery back to WalMart for testing as well.  Maybe that's a lemon?

[kenfain]

Seems strange that a deep cycle battery was recommended for starting. No reason why it wouldn't work though. Mine uses one, but mine is a diesel. Gas engines typically use a standard battery. 

I'd put a full charge on it, check the voltage, then start the engine a couple times. No driving, just start it up, and shut it off, repeat. Then check the battery voltage again. This just knocks off the surface charge. You should still be just above 12v-12.5v . Last time you said it was 13ish, that's a bit high.

If you suspect the battery isn't the right size, or not strong enough. Try a different battery from the car, or something. 

No reason to buy a positive cable yet. You can easily check resistance with your multi meter. Takes less than a minute. Google will show you the exact details. 

But like I said before, I believe you'll still need to find that mysterious power draw. YouTube has a few tutorials about finding electrical shorts. But those only tell you which circuit. Then you know which wire to chase, or which component to test. But with it narrowed down, it usually gets easy from there.

It's a process of elimination, but I'm thinking that your root issue is there, in that overnight battery discharge. It just seems suspicious, that you've got two problems that could very easily share the same root cause. 

[Mark Popeye]

Well, seems to be going from bad to worse.  I have an ATV mechanic working on it.  He's adjusted the valves, got the compression correct but has no spark.  The last time I tried to start it, I got smoke from around ignition area.  He's wondering if  the ECM is bad?  He's advised me that it's at the point where it's crazy to dump more money into it.  Heck they won't even take it in trade!  He suggests selling it but who would buy a non-running UTV?

[kenfain]

How much for a control module?