-
Similar Topics
-
By Texjpr
2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
-
By Hunterman22
2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
Will NOT START
MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site.
I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power.
So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away.
Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home. After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it.
So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock.
Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power, turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner. So after that the AICV was making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START. I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector. I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail. I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore. I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems. But this SxS is kicking my ass.
So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you for reading thus far.
-
By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
-
By Ridge Runner
Hi
i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter. The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening. There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place. The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them. This is right by the tail light assemblies. I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in. Bottom line I’m making it worse.
coleman was no help. If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole. Any ideas?
thanks
Ridgerunner
-
By Jerrys500
I wouldn't say that after a year of owning this thing, that I would go out and buy one again. Certainly one that was used and abused, but at the time I needed something and this was in my price range. I could tell that it would need some work. I however didn't know the half of it. This was my second UTV. The first one was and older American Sportsworks Carbide 7150 that was a total piece of junk. I got it for next to nothing and was a project piece. I got it running and rode it for a bit but it was way not what i needed and it finally burned up and was set aside. Anyways, so I bought this one from a farmer. I'm not positive of the exact model but it originally came from Tractor Supply. per the stickers on the bed and its a camo color. Upon first inspection when I got it home, it was a mess.
1. Had a water leak - The leak was in two hoses one of which was a short one that came from the rear of the engine and I literally ended up cutting it off. Well getting another one on there took hours and was simply horrible.
2. Had an oil leak - This is my concern today as I was never able to figure out for sure what it was going to take to fix it. More on that in a min once you have a full account of where i've been in this thing.
3. Had a bad clutch - Replacing the entirety of the clutch system wasn't all that bad except its a tight space to work in to do this repair. was a pain to figure out the angle that I needed to get the cover off and then back on again but figured it out the second day and got it done.
4. Had bad Universal Joints - this was a nightmare because they originally put 18mm ujoints in the thing which I was not aware of so when my parts came in of course I had the 20mm that they started putting in, from what I can understand, was the very next year. Finding the 18mm ones was all but impossible so I bit the bullet and did the full conversion to the 20's.
5. Had bad Tie Rods. - Tie rods were not a problem. However while in there I noticed that it was a little low on brake fluid. The fluid that was in there looked fresh. Sure enough there was a line leak there so i had to get new lines for it. I almost just ordered the master cylinder at that time but had seen the fluid coming from the other end and thought yeah it should be ok. That was a stupid decision. Yet another parts order to get one. Once delivered it was not a prob just replace, fill, bleed and good to go.
6. This was about the time the panic set in. I needed to check the other oils and the final gear oil was mostly empty and what was in there I'm still not was sure was gear lube. Luckily after clearing it out and refilling it, there didn't seem to be any issues with the final gear. So far that is.
7. So at this point I figured that it was ready for my first trek with it to the gold claim and off we went. This was a 14 day venture in the middle of nowhere over 300 miles from home. I had tested it over the course of 5 days and except for the oil leak it looked like all was good with the exception of blowing a little smoke. Day two in the sticks it decided to just die on us out of the blue. I checked the spark and it wasn't there anymore. The plug wire had come apart. I made one that worked until I could get a replacement. It still wouldn't start but I was getting spark. ended having to remove the fuel pump and clean it up. I then had to pull the fuel injector. I don't know why it ran when it did. It took over 4 hours of running brake parts cleaner and air through it before I could get any fuel to go through it. Luckily after that most of a day delay, I'm glad to report that it did its job rather nicely for the remainder of the trip.
8. After that ordeal and in the neighborhood of about $800 or so for parts and oils and all it looked a little brighter. I did still have not only the oil leak to fix, it started blowing more and more smoke. I keep the oil up but it uses quite a bit. if used in a whole day I'm adding at least a half quart. Its made three trips now in this described state. The only new things are that it has gotten very difficult to shift which is likely that pair of shifting gears, the blowing of smoke that is almost for sure a sign that I have to rebuild the top end including the top end kit and do the valves at the same time. Now the oil leak.
So this leak I don't quite know the part names but it is coming out from around the shaft coming from the front of the engine. My diagram does not seem to show that there is a bearing in there but I would think there has to be. So I can't order a part that doesn't seem to exist. Now the part I still can't figure out is am I going to have to pull the motor and split the case to do this repair or with the four bolts in the housing will this pop out into my hand and be a simple replacement? Of course after removing that shaft which of its own was no fun because of the requirement of almost having to remove the entire differential to get it out.
Sorry for the lengthy story but I think that it shows some of the pain of these things. I grew up riding dirt bikes, motorcycles, and three and four wheelers and I can say that none of them were ever as difficult to fix stuff as this Massimo is. Heck have done motorcycles from the frame up with modifications and it wasn't this difficult. Let me qualify that statement, I'm speaking of Kawasaki, Honda, and Suzuki motorcycles only once did ever work on a Harley and thinking about it that was horrific as well.
Thanks for any words of wisdom besides junk this crap for a 17k to 30k upgrade. Only cause I'm 5'9 and my wife of 40 plus years is 6'1 and told me that i can't have the Kawasaki Teryx 1000 that I drool over. Getting old has really curbed her desire to deal with my toys over these four decades....
Thanks for listening I look forward to and replies... Jerry
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now