Kawasaki Teryx Billet Rear Hub/Spindle Assembly Now Available
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By CYJSP2009
Dear Friends,
2022 Brand new Joyner CV Axles and CV Joint rebuild kits are comming
1. S650.03.02.02.00 ---Joyner 650 Commando Rear
2. TR1100.03.01.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Front
3. TR1100.03.02.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Rear
4. D650.03.02.02.00 --- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Left
5. D650.03.02.03.00--- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Right
6. SV800.03.02.01.00 --- Joyner 800 Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft Left
7. 14274 --- 650 ider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
8. 15803 --- 650 Sand Spider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
Attached are the part photos for reference.
Above parts are now on the way to USA, will be ready for inland delivery in middle of July.
Price: CV Axle: USD250/ Piece; CV Joint kit （without grease): USD110 send to door.
There will be special discount availabe for deals completed within July 2022.
Buy 1 piece: Get 5% discount,
Buy 2 pieces: get 10% discount.
Buy 3 pieces: get 15% discount,
Buy 4 and more than 4 pieces: get 20% discount.
Please kindly note Qty for each part is not big and it is hard to forcast when there will be next offer for these kind of products unless there is sufficient confirmed order qty for productioin arrangement.
Payment method: Payoneer payment link ( can pay through bank account or credit card) or Paypal ( [email protected]) . Payment commission paid by the buyer.
Interested parties, please contact [email protected].
Thanks
Good Luck
Casey / Leaf Asia
July-07-2022
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By TjB
My dad has recently acquired a 2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel powered. It worked fine few weeks and then quit driving. Put a new belt on just to see. Still not driving. It already had a new clutch. Belt turns when in drive or reverse and back wheels are off ground to test. But wheels not turning. Thoughts?
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By rsar
So I finally got my Quad Gear cab enclosure after waiting out the backorder for three months and to say it's been a huge disappointment is a pretty big understatement. I think mostly because I could make it work, if not for one major issue. The windshield is right next to impossible to see out of. It's a real headscratcher because the side and rear windows are okay. It's not high quality 30 or 40 gauge marine vinyl but I have Quad Gear's stand-alone winshield so I knew it wasn't the best in terms of visibility, but definitely doable for the price. Incredibly, the side and rear windows of the cab eclosure are just as clear as the stand-alone windshield. And the windshield on the enclosure is like 50 percent worse than the stand-alone. It's the same company! I don't get it. If it had just been the rear windshield that was that bad I would have kept it. There are some creases and wrinkles here and there, but I've been using the stand-alone windshield for the past three months so it's good enough not to have to shell out $600 plus for the stock hard windshield. I'd put visibility at about 65- 70 percent. The wife hates it though, which is a pretty big negative. In any case, my original plans were to have an upholsterer change the crappy vinyl out for the high quality stuff and I even sent it to a guy who ended up flaking out on me and refusing to do it. He said he didn't want to charge me $400 for something I paid $200 for. Long story, short, I decided to return it and just get the insanely expensive Kawasaki enclosure next winter since the frigid temps here are about to start climbing in a couple weeks anyway. I first put it on just to see how it would look (I took pics of course) and found that it didnt even seal 100 percent and made it drafty inside the cab. So make that two major issues. At least with the stock enclosure everything will be top flight. Doors will be nice too.
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By Tejun
Neighbor rode their Coleman with the park brake apparently not fully released. Needless to say, things got pretty hot and even started smoking and the smoke was definitely gear oil smell. Looks like oil is coming from the area just behind the disc for the park break. Looking at parts diagram, there is an oring behind the nut/washer that attaches the flange to pinion shaft. I'm not finding anything on YT that would help with disassembly. Anyone have some experience with removing rear driveshaft ?
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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