Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

As I have shopped around I have noticed the  sxs manufacturers leave out things I consider critical like a windshield and a roof counting on you buying extra stuff. 

Is there any advantage to buying accessories from the dealership when buying a new one? 

Is there any general quality difference between OEM and aftermarket accessories?

I also plan to buy a winch and am considering a Harbor Freight winch.  Thoughts?  Also, I've always thought the idea of a receiver mounted hitch makes lots of sense so you can use it on the front or back.  Has anyone seen this done?  Thoughts?

Posted

How you mount the winch, would probably depend mostly on what you expect to use it for. A receiver mount can be useful for being lightly stuck, and having an anchor point somewhat straight behind, or in front. A side pull from a receiver could be trouble. Especially if the buggy is buried. Receivers aren't made to take a side load, and aren't rated for that much weight anyway. Unfortunately I've found that optimum conditions rarely present themselves in a winching  situation. I always carry several tow straps, and lots of rope. Along with several shackles, and several snatch blocks. Although I rarely use any of it.

Power cables would be a pain, and expensive for the rear mount. I've found that winches in general are a pain. But occasionally it's the best tool for the job. Although I typically use a come along, and try to avoid deep muck. 

I will say this for certain. Get the kevlar rope, or similar. Cable is extremely dangerous under load. People have died after a steel winch cable snapped.  Cable will fray a bit, no matter how carefully you treat it. Leaving painful surprises along it's length, as you guide it back on the spool.

My vote would be for a front bumper mounted warn winch. With lots of accessories, and preferably a cordless remote, with a wired backup remote. 

FWIW, my buggy weighs around 1500pounds. My 4000 lb. Warn winch would almost certainly need at least one snatch block to pull it out of floor board deep mud. So go bigger than you think you need, if you'll be in serious back country. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By TPlummer
      We recently purchased the Axis x550. Fueled it with 93 fuel and drove one time around the farm and the 02 fault error appeared. Any ideas? 
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By hetovi
      Hello everyone.
      I recently bought a Can-Am Ryker and I'm looking to customize it with some accessories. I’ve seen a lot of options out there but wanted to get some recommendations from fellow riders.
      What are the must-have accessories for comfort, style, or performance?
      Specifically, I'm considering a windshield and better footpegs—are these worth the investment?
      Also, any thoughts on storage solutions like saddlebags or rear cases?
      Would love to hear your personal experiences with any mods you’ve done.
    • By Clayton Walker
      After searching all summer, I finally found a company that makes a cargo rack and roof rack for the UForce XL, and I wanted to share it with fellow UForce owners. I know this is my first post, but I’m just trying to save others the time I spent researching. I bought one for hunting, and it works great, so hopefully, this helps anyone looking for a similar setup. 
       
       

×
×
  • Create New...