Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I purchased my 550 from Tractor Supply in November 2019.  I have 52 hours on it now.  

You commented on my oil changing shenanigans I noticed.  Other than purchasing the jaw style style filter wrench and using Mobil 1 10w-40 4t (2.5 qts), my other suggestion would be alter your maintenance schedule from what the manual states.  When I changed the factory oil at ~33 hours, it was opaque turd colored and had gritty particulate in it.  Not good.  I know some of that is expected during break in, but it was way nastier than any other break in oil I have changed on other units I own.  The manual, iirc, states to change the oil at 50 hours, then every 200 hours after.  I intend to not follow that.  I will not go more than 50 hours unless I see a dramatic improvement in the quality of the used oil.  I also use a blackstone labs to give me a break down of the oil for my other toys.  I suggest getting the lab work done at your second oil change.  It will at least let you know what you might be in for down the road.

Also, you need to grease the zerks.  And there are  A LOT of them.  Some are very difficult, if not impossible, to get to.  Someone should be beaten for that.

The only issue I have had with mine other than the oil filter fiasco is a dragging brake.  I still have not fixed it.  Maybe some day. 

Posted

I found a filter wrench that is like a socket and it fit over the end of the filter. I then just put a 3/8" ratchet wrench on it and it came off very easily, which I was pretty surprised. I agree with the accelerated oil change interval, especially during earlier periods. I use Royal Purple in all my vehicles and  have had great luck. I too have used Blackstone, and think I will send in a sample at next oil change. Mine is also a 2019 purchased from Tractor Supply.

Shifting can be tricky some times but I believe I can do some adjusting on the linkages and remedy that. Can't figure out why they used the design they did for shifting rather than using one shift cable ???

  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi

glad to find some other Coleman 550 owners.  Hope you can give me some advice.  What are you using for the inline fuel  filter?   Mine didn’t come with one installed when I bought it new.  Coleman sent me a black painted metal filter and two clamps,  there’s no flow indicator marked on it, just a sideways paint pen marking.  Travis on another thread suggested using a Wix 33972 filter.  Have you used that filter?  Did your machine come with the filter installed?  Here’s the photos I posted on the  other thread.  Thanks to .Travis for suggestions the Wix filter might work well.  I’m unsure about using a filter that isn’t clearly marked for direction of flow.  
 

I agree about changing oil every 50 hours.  I called Coleman and asked them about the flow direction…. They had no idea. 
 

thanks 

953B8F28-7394-4AF6-8E19-C134BCC7347D.jpeg

Posted

I tried a Wix initially (can't remember part number) but it did not hold up. I ended up ordering one from Summit Racing part# TNK-FF-10. Its an inline 10 micron filter designed for up to 60 psi. Have not had a problem since installing that filter and replacing all the fuel lines. Before that, I would get a fouled injector about every tank of gas.

 

Posted

Mine had nothing other than the screen in the tank. I was fouling injectors like every tank of gas. I finally drained/cleaned the fuel tank, replaced all the fuel lines and installed the inline filter. That was a year ago and I have not had any issues since then.

Posted

Sorry, forgot to answer one of your questions. I really did not find anything concerning in the tank when I cleaned it so I thought, while I had everything torn down, why not go ahead and replace the fuel lines too. I already had a roll of high quality fuel line in my shop.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Recently purchased a Coleman 550 Outfitter from Tractor Supply with 30 hours now and all is good. Should I pray?

Is the Coleman 550 Outfitter the same as a HiSun 550 except for tire rims, front grill and badging? I want to purchase a rear fabric roll up window for rear of cab to keep dust out of cabin when cruising and all I can find is one for a HiSun 550. 

Posted

Thanks Ridge Runner. Your comment is good to hear. I really like all the standard equipment at a price people can afford vs the big boys.

Posted

I feel the same way.  Is it the gold standard?  No…. Is it Made in .China, yes …. But sadly, so is my TV, cell phone, boots, etc….  I’d prefer to buy USA.    I bought a much more expensive name brand UTV several years before this one.  Then I needed to order all the extras like a roof, windshield, cvt guards, belly plate, mirrors, turn signals etc….  And it was in the shop 7 of the first 12 months.  I’m hoping this Coleman lasts, so I try not to abuse it, or torture test it… so far, zero days in the shop, after several years.  I’ve gotten a lot of use out of it.  I can’t care for the noise level, and wish it was a multi cylinder.  I run it mostly in low range,  per the advice I’ve been given about the clutch.  If I need to move out, it’s simple to change to high range.  With the price point I’m more than happy.  (So far). 😀

Posted

Great feedback Ridge Runner.   I am curious about your comment running in Low range. I use mine mostly going about 15-25 MPH in my community with some off-road local fun. What should I be concern with about my clutch using High gear?  Thanks

Posted

Howdy folks, thought I would chime in to give an update. Since I changed out all the fuel lines and added the 10 micron inline fuel filter, I have not had any issues. for around the last 250 miles Now have 660 miles on it. I bought a Honda Pioneer 1000-5 back in February (they are sure proud of those things !!). I had put the Coleman up for sale a week ago and decided after a few days that I was just going to keep it. There are many features on the Coleman that I like over the Honda. We have 9 acres so having two is an added benefit

Posted
4 minutes ago, Doc IV said:

Great feedback Ridge Runner.   I am curious about your comment running in Low range. I use mine mostly going about 15-25 MPH in my community with some off-road local fun. What should I be concern with about my clutch using High gear?  Thanks

Howdy Doc, I use mine pretty much exclusively on my property and would say I hardly ever get over 15 mph. I rarely use high range. If we decide to ride around neighborhood is the only time I venture out of low range. 

Posted

Hey Tejun,  I use my new Coleman just the opposite of you. I mostly use High Gear for tooling around the hood as I only have 1 acre but go into our community's Nature Preserve Trail to have fun. My Coleman is only a week old so I appreciate all the input I can get from fellow owners.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Doc IV

I’ve been told that running it below 25 mph in high range is harder on the wet clutch, and will cause early failure,  running it faster in high range is fine.  I don’t know if it’s true, but a friend ran his HIsun 700 in only high range, and burned up his wet clutch in 100 hours.  Motor Cycle  Doctor says it has to do with a combination of low oil fill, and running it in high range.  So far following that advice, mine runs fine.  Most of my use is under 25 Mph,   When I intend go faster, I put it in high range.  

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the clarification on High and Low Range Ridge Runner. I will start using Low until 20-25 then go into High Range. Another question is do you need to fully stop before switching into one or the other?

Posted
3 minutes ago, Doc IV said:

Thanks for the clarification on High and Low Range Ridge Runner. I will start using Low until 20-25 then go into High Range. Another question is do you need to fully stop before switching into one or the other?

Yes, absolutely . It is very important to come to a complete stop

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Alien10
      I'm thinking of buying a snow blade for my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun with Coleman stickers).
      Has anyone purchased a snow blade that can offer the make and model they bought and any comments, pros  cons etc.?
      Not 100% sure I'm going to buy, as the selection of blades for this model seems a bit thin on line. 
      Thoughts and comments welcomed.
      Thanks in advance.
    • By Homeowner A
      Have a bed decal that has never been right.  Contacted Coleman Powersports and they have no solution.  Anyone know of a place where I could get a replacement decal or complete decal or graphics kit?  
    • By Rainman
      I want to put a charger/maintainer for my Coleman UT400 for the winter and need to know if it uses a 6v or 12v battery.
      One search online showed a 6v, but another stated 12v..
      I can look at the battery, but after taking the seat out you cannot see the top of the battery without also removing the top plate under the seat and at 8 degrees outside, I'd rather not be out there too long.
      Can anyone verify what volt (6 or 12) the batter is?
      Thanks in advance ...
    • By Homeowner A
      Is there a diagram of all of the grease zerks for a Coleman UT 400?  Mine squeaks like crazy and want to try and remedy it.  
    • Get More For Your Device
    • By Alien10
      This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes. 
      A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new,  the E brake stopped working.  Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding.  Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain.   So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and  felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case.  As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement.  Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B".  Working from below, here is what I did.
      Removed the skid plate below the E brake.   6 bolts and washers.  Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each.  Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D".  Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow.  Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing.  Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever.  With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so.  Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped.  Retightened lock nut "B".   E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely.  Reinstalled skid plate.  Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams. 
       up.
      Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...