Opinions on the Intimidator GC1K series
-
Similar Topics
-
By hisun junk
As I tried to do a conversion with the Yamaha 660 motor, I realized the 660 was never fuel injected so it would not work for the fuel injected hisun motor swap. But the good thing is the hisun 750 motor is a clone of the 660 Yamaha but with the components for the fuel injection (cam/crank position sensor). So that left me with a new rebuilt Yamaha 660 and still a broke 750 hisun motor. I took apart 750 think the timing chain had broke from all that I've heard about these motors. The chain was not broke, but just off cam and crank gears! The chain tensioner was at fault! I've ordered Yamaha 660 replacement parts, chain, two exhaust valves (which got bent when chain came off while motor was spinning) and seals. The piston has 2 little nicks where it had hit valves but no damage otherwise. The head is being redone at the machine shop and I'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Also I finally tracked down a Service Manual with all the info on the 550/750 Challenger.
-
By SouthernGypsy
We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
Trying to figure out where it belongs...
-
-
By Reynolds Rocket
I have a 2017 Intimidator XD4 800cc 4x4. It will run great and then it's like it goes into safe mode and only runs on 1 cylinder. It's not fouling out the plug when it happens. Some times when I stop and restart it, it works fine. First I thought it was a spark issue, then a fuel issue, but I feel like it's a short in the wiring some place.
-
By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now