Quantcast
Jump to content


Rear suspension arm and hub povot points


Guest Lenny

Recommended Posts

I recently removed my rear trailing arm to check the pivot points. As you all know, they not serviceable without removal. Checking mine, I found one of the four total was about to get dry. Even a little surface rust was developing on the surface as seen in the picture attacked. The joint is fairly well designed but the caps on the ends with internal rubber seals doesn't seal very good. I added greese fittings to eliminate the servicing problem and to be able to pump fresh greese to them on a regular basis. If you add the fittings, be sure to put them as far around the bearing tube towards the rear as possible. If you later modify your suspension to get the 14 1/2" of travel, then the fitting will miss the bracket the arm pivots on when the suspension is at full compression.

While at it, I also added greese fittings to the rear axel hubs. This also is shown in an included picture. Just looking them and seeing the greese squeezing out the sides a little makes me feel a lot better about things.

I sujest everyone check these pivot points. Greese fittings can be purchased at your local auto supply. I would use the small ones shown in the rear axle hub picture rather than the larger ones I used on the arms.

Lenny

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/29728...104282158ZOGIQp

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/26898...104282158NfhqUY

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By diamondjfarm
      I got an old 2003 Arctic Cat 375 Auto, and just bought a 2008 AC 650 side by side. Got a new starter, solenoid, and battery for the 650. Gonna change the crankcase oil and filter while I'm at it.
      Anything I oughta watch out for from them that's done the starter/solenoid on this model?
      Don't have a manual yet for the 650. Any recommendations for oil weight/grade?
      Thanks.
    • By Ronald
      Check engine light comes on after engine runs continuously for 5 minutes or so.  I can shut down the engine and restart and check engine light goes out, then comes back on after running 5 minutes or so?  What ya think?
    • By Retired Plumber
      The rear differential lock light is on and I would like to get it off. How do I do that it is a Coleman UTV700.
    • By djl
      Hi All.  The splines are pretty well worn where the rear driveshaft fits into the adapter (boss?) on the rear of the engine.  I have a new driveshaft / adapter / seal to install but am having difficulty loosening the nut holding the adapter onto the transmission output shaft.  I purchased a chain-type vice grip tool thinking that I could get it around the adapter to prevent it from turning but have not had any luck getting it in there yet (very tight space).  What approaches have you used that have worked?  Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...