Quantcast
Jump to content


Front axel hub ball joints, adding greese fittings


Guest Lenny

Recommended Posts

The front ball joints on the front axel hubs, as you know, do not allow greesing. This can easily be corrected by adding greese fittings. See picture. The hex cap on each of the 4 joints is spot welded on. It threads into the ball body holding the ball and stem into place. It's a pretty sloppy joint to begin with but still can use regular greesing until you get around to replacing them with better ones. Using a small grinder with a cutoff wheel works good to cut the spots loose. You could saw them also I suspose. Once the welds are cut, there may be a bit of weld left holding the cap from turning. If it's not too much, you would rather not grind too deep, you can get the cap to turn using a center punch or kind of a dull chisel to hammer at the corner of the hex. You may need to grind a little more if it stays tight. Be careful not to get too aggrssive and knock the corners off. Once loose, use a visegrip to get ahold of it to remove it. Install greese fitting and reassemble and finally respot the hex in place. I would think that if you don't have a welder, you could clean it up good and use locktite or possibly wire it but I haven't tried these aproaches.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/24019...104282158dpzOsj

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By FGT
      QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.

      EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.


    • By Alien10
      A while back I was looking at an auction UTV plow and the mounting of it.  Looked like it had an "H" bar with two pins that hooked into brackets on the front frame of the UTV.   I have a bunch of 1/4" x2" angle iron, and some 2"x1/2" flat stock in the barn.   I was thinking of welding up a bolt on implement mount that would provide 2 holes about 14" apart, that pins could be used to hook up an "H" frame for a plow or even a straight bar across with pins to hold it in place.   The angle iron "A" would utilize the existing bumper mounting bolts front and bottom, and have the two channels "B" with holes for individual pins or one large bar across. Those channels would be welded to the ends of the angle iron. 
      Anyone ever try this for a front mount?   It would be close to  this one that is for sale on the net.  It is supposed to fit a KFI plow mount.  

       
    • By Buck
      My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts.  I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch.  He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing.  Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.
    • By Jhud
      In the market for side by side. Narrowed it down between the pioneer 1000 or defender Hd9. Looking for pros and cons of both. Any info would be helpful in my selection process. Noise, speed, reliability, ride, all of it.
    • By Anthony Vigil
      Can anyone tell me how they grease the drivelines ?  Can’t grease the u joints. Do you need to take the driveline off ? 
      And are they easy to take off?
      Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...