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By Rainman
I want to put a charger/maintainer for my Coleman UT400 for the winter and need to know if it uses a 6v or 12v battery.
One search online showed a 6v, but another stated 12v..
I can look at the battery, but after taking the seat out you cannot see the top of the battery without also removing the top plate under the seat and at 8 degrees outside, I'd rather not be out there too long.
Can anyone verify what volt (6 or 12) the batter is?
Thanks in advance ...
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By TexAcoon
I'm looking to purchase a 2015 Massimo 550 that might have an issue with it's throttle position sensor.
From the fella selling this UTV, he claims its to set the idle on fuel injection because the engine will not stay idle or when it starts sometimes it idles too high.
My Question if anyone had any issues with their Massimo 550 and if it was actually the TPS or something else that would allow the machine to idle correctly.
Thanks!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
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