Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all,

In looking for a synthetic line for my Outfitter 400's 3500 lb. Runva winch I ran across this offering from Harbor Freight; $30.99 with 20% off coupon + tax = $26.40--not too bad (please spare me the "Cheap Chinese junk" yowls, where do you think 99.44% of the components of, and stuff we buy, for our toys comes from?).

image_27675.jpeg

It is made of UHMW polyester with a claimed (and fully believable) tensile strength of 4700 lbs. and a working load of 3000 lbs.--which is in keeping with the specs published by  most manufacturers of UHMW rope and therefore much more believable than the 6000 and absurd 8200 lb. claims made by  other vendors. It comes with a G70 snap-hook (sized for 1/4" chain), and an anodized aluminum Hawes type fairlead. The package I bought did not contain the red strap shown in HF's ad, which based on reviews is a common failing of the kit. Also, there is no snubber provided, I got a nice one of silicone rubber with stainless fasteners from Amazon for $7.

The winch and business ends of the rope are sleeved with black urethane coated nylon (were i to guess) protective sleeves-for 8+ ft at the winch end and 5 ft. or so at he hook end. The winch end has a couple inches of heat shrink tubing to prevent unravelling and assist in fastening it to the typical bore-through/set screw winch drum.  The 12-strand braided rope appears to be of a high quality UHMW polyester, as claimed, the fairlead is cleanly cast and appears to have been glass bead or shot blasted after casting a it has a smooth fine pebble grain finish. The mounting holes are at the standard 124 mm (4-7/8") center-to-center distance as is common on ATV and UTV winches.

All 50'  installed easily on my winch, the 8 ft or so of protective sleeve providing a nice supporting first wrap. The sleeve at the business end completely covers the last layer of rope, providing a nice shield to protect the synthetic rope from prolonged UV exposure. Likewise, the fairlead bolted right up with no problem.

on the drum:
HFWinchRope-01.jpg

the Hawes fairlead and snubber:
HFWinchRope-00.jpg

long shot:
HFWinchRope-02.jpg

It is important to keep in mind when using  synthetic winch  rope that, while it is very strong, it is also  very low stretch, typically just 3.5% at break--in practice this can  result in dynamic shock loading exceeding it's tensile strength. This is also true of steel wire rope, but the metallic rope can better handle dynamic loading.

I also would not recommend synthetic rope for use in that torture track that is common to winch hoisted low-cost ATV/UTV snowplows. The mechanical dis-advantage which most plow designs operate and apply to the winch hoist is staggering. In such plows am less surprised that the rope (synthetic or wire) breaks than that it survives more than one use.

I like it...

 

[update 02/04/2021]

After some experimentation using a digital scale, a 55 lb. anvil and both the roller and Hawes fairleads I have re-installed the roller fairlead. I found that at extreme fleet angles (45° to 90°--angles you should try to avoid) the Hawes fairlead increased required cable load by 10% to 25% vs. the roller fairlead.

One caution however; make certain there is sufficient overlap of the roller faces and the ends of their companion rollers--both ways. On my roller fairlead the rollers overlap the ends of their 90° opposed companion by 1/2 their diameter as illustrated below:

roller orientation, my fairlead--top view:

RollerFairlead-00.jpg

roller orientation, my fairlead--side view:

RollerFairlead-01.jpg

I have seen roller guides in which this was not the case which allows the much more flexible synthetic line to "fall off" the active roller and jam between the end of its companion roller and the fairlead frame--which would of course be bad.

While I had it apart I also stitched and whipped the protective sleeve to the rope at both the lead end of the trailing length into the winch, and the trailing end aft of the hook.

winch end:
Winch2021-02.jpg

hook end:
Winch2021-03.jpg

anchor point on the drum:
Winch2021-00.jpg

sleeved rope in fairlead:
Winch2021-01.jpg

[/update]

 

  • Thanks 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Alien10
      I'm thinking of buying a snow blade for my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun with Coleman stickers).
      Has anyone purchased a snow blade that can offer the make and model they bought and any comments, pros  cons etc.?
      Not 100% sure I'm going to buy, as the selection of blades for this model seems a bit thin on line. 
      Thoughts and comments welcomed.
      Thanks in advance.
    • By LeMay624
      Hey guys! Was wondering if anybody has had any experience in shutting up a Kioti K9 or Kioti Mechron.  I daily drive a K9 in an underground mine and between the engine noise and belt whine I can’t hear myself think while driving this thing! 2-5 hours a day. It’s a 2021 model with 180 hours on it. Belt and clutches are clean, machine is maintained to factory recommended schedule and then some. Has been like this since new. Before I start boxing in the engine with plywood and stuffing insulation under the seat I thought I would reach out and see if anybody has run into this before! 
    • By BMurph
      Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!

    • By Alien10
      This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes. 
      A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new,  the E brake stopped working.  Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding.  Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain.   So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and  felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case.  As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement.  Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B".  Working from below, here is what I did.
      Removed the skid plate below the E brake.   6 bolts and washers.  Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each.  Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D".  Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow.  Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing.  Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever.  With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so.  Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped.  Retightened lock nut "B".   E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely.  Reinstalled skid plate.  Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams. 
       up.
      Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
       
       
    • By hisun junk
      As I tried to do a conversion with the Yamaha 660 motor, I realized the 660 was never fuel injected so it would not work for the fuel injected hisun motor swap. But the good thing is the hisun 750 motor is a clone of the 660 Yamaha but with the components for the fuel injection (cam/crank position sensor). So that left me with a new rebuilt Yamaha 660 and still a broke 750 hisun motor. I took apart 750 think the timing chain had broke from all that I've heard about these motors. The chain was not broke, but just off cam and crank gears! The chain tensioner was at fault!  I've ordered Yamaha 660 replacement parts, chain, two exhaust valves (which got bent when chain came off while motor was spinning) and seals. The piston has 2 little nicks where it had hit valves but no damage otherwise. The head is being redone at the machine shop and I'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Also I finally tracked down a Service Manual with all the info on the 550/750 Challenger.

×
×
  • Create New...