Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

My dominator will not start. I have checked and charged the battery. It runs all the lights at full brightness and all other electrical systems perfectly well (e.g. winch).  When I attempted to start the UTV, I hear a clicking noise underneath the battery but no other sound. 

My guess is that either the break or gear "start" solenoid is stuck. I noticed that the UTV will only start when the break is pressed and it is in park. If the solenoid that triggers either of these is stuck, that would explain no starting. Or, the starter is dead?

Any thoughts?

Posted

with a click that implies the starter solenoid is getting power. it's just not able to pass it through, 99% of the time its a faulty solenoid that needs replaced.

next thing to do would be check battery voltage, at  the battery and at the solenoid and be sure they're the same reading.

Posted

Yea, that makes sense.  I haven't been able to find much information about the motor or UTV in general. Is there a manual/reference for the motor in that UTV? I found the UTV manual but all it says is "see dealer." This problem is fairly trivial to fix if it's just a solenoid replacement.

Posted

The brake and "park" interlocks (if present) are most likely to be just switches wired in series with the "start"position of the ignition switch--as there is relatively little power required to activate the starter solenoid (a fancy word for relay) it would make no sense to use additional solenoids for those safety devices.

The first thing I would check would be the voltage across the battery terminal clamps, not the battery posts,  but the cable clamps while attempting to crank the engine.

If the starter solenoid clicks and the observed voltage does not drop to 10.6 V or so then then it is probable the starter solenoid is bad--but don't rule out wiring or connections in the main supply to the starter motor just yet. If the voltage does drop to 10.6 V or so then the starter solenoid is good and  the starter nay be seized up or otherwise bad.

To check the main supply path to the starter measure the voltage between the positive battery post (post, not cable clamp) and the positive terminal stud on the starter--while attempting to crank the motor.

In an ideal world it would be 0.0 V, however in our world 0.1 to 0.25 V would be normal. If more than 0.5 V then there is a bad wire, connection, or some other component in the path 'tween the battery and the starter. Next measure voltage between the battery + post and the next connection "back" from the starter (likely the starter solenoid output terminal)--while attempting to crank the motor. Is that 0.1 o 0.25 V? If it is then the wire between the solenoid output and the starter is bad (corroded or loose terminal or ???).

If not measure between the battery +post and the starter solenoid input post (again while cranking). If that is low (0.1 to 0.25 V) then the solenoid primary contacts are bad--replace the solenoid. If high (>0.5 V) the cable from the battery to the starter solenoid is bad--OR-next measure between the battery + post and cable clamp. If high (>0.5 V) than the cable clamp/battery connection is bad.

Or just disconnect, clean, and reconnect each connection between the battery and starter motor--don't just look at them to see if they "look OK", take them apart and clean them, reconect with a dose og dielectric grease (or any grease you have on hand--even Vaseline from the bedside table will work!).

 

Posted
18 minutes ago, Ryan Knuth said:

Thanks, that's super helpful. I was able to deduce that the starter is bad. Now onto another question: how does one find the starter?

Which measurement brought you there?  Mostly curious, however we might be able to validate your conclusion...

Follow the heavy wire from the battery + post, to the starter solenoid, then from the solenoid to the starter...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By D MAYNARD
      I have an Axis 500 4x4 UTV that I was given.  It looks like an almost new machine with 39 hrs on it however it was apparently under water from the hurricane . I have no spark at the plug. I have replaced the plug, the plug wire, & the stator so far. Can anyone advise me of what i need to check and or replace to get this thing running? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 
                                    Thank You,
                                  D Maynard 
       
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By Rick A
      I charged the battery reconnected everything but utv will not start and nothing comes on when key is turned. such as headlights, dash lights nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...