Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

My dominator will not start. I have checked and charged the battery. It runs all the lights at full brightness and all other electrical systems perfectly well (e.g. winch).  When I attempted to start the UTV, I hear a clicking noise underneath the battery but no other sound. 

My guess is that either the break or gear "start" solenoid is stuck. I noticed that the UTV will only start when the break is pressed and it is in park. If the solenoid that triggers either of these is stuck, that would explain no starting. Or, the starter is dead?

Any thoughts?

Posted

with a click that implies the starter solenoid is getting power. it's just not able to pass it through, 99% of the time its a faulty solenoid that needs replaced.

next thing to do would be check battery voltage, at  the battery and at the solenoid and be sure they're the same reading.

Posted

Yea, that makes sense.  I haven't been able to find much information about the motor or UTV in general. Is there a manual/reference for the motor in that UTV? I found the UTV manual but all it says is "see dealer." This problem is fairly trivial to fix if it's just a solenoid replacement.

Posted

The brake and "park" interlocks (if present) are most likely to be just switches wired in series with the "start"position of the ignition switch--as there is relatively little power required to activate the starter solenoid (a fancy word for relay) it would make no sense to use additional solenoids for those safety devices.

The first thing I would check would be the voltage across the battery terminal clamps, not the battery posts,  but the cable clamps while attempting to crank the engine.

If the starter solenoid clicks and the observed voltage does not drop to 10.6 V or so then then it is probable the starter solenoid is bad--but don't rule out wiring or connections in the main supply to the starter motor just yet. If the voltage does drop to 10.6 V or so then the starter solenoid is good and  the starter nay be seized up or otherwise bad.

To check the main supply path to the starter measure the voltage between the positive battery post (post, not cable clamp) and the positive terminal stud on the starter--while attempting to crank the motor.

In an ideal world it would be 0.0 V, however in our world 0.1 to 0.25 V would be normal. If more than 0.5 V then there is a bad wire, connection, or some other component in the path 'tween the battery and the starter. Next measure voltage between the battery + post and the next connection "back" from the starter (likely the starter solenoid output terminal)--while attempting to crank the motor. Is that 0.1 o 0.25 V? If it is then the wire between the solenoid output and the starter is bad (corroded or loose terminal or ???).

If not measure between the battery +post and the starter solenoid input post (again while cranking). If that is low (0.1 to 0.25 V) then the solenoid primary contacts are bad--replace the solenoid. If high (>0.5 V) the cable from the battery to the starter solenoid is bad--OR-next measure between the battery + post and cable clamp. If high (>0.5 V) than the cable clamp/battery connection is bad.

Or just disconnect, clean, and reconnect each connection between the battery and starter motor--don't just look at them to see if they "look OK", take them apart and clean them, reconect with a dose og dielectric grease (or any grease you have on hand--even Vaseline from the bedside table will work!).

 

Posted
18 minutes ago, Ryan Knuth said:

Thanks, that's super helpful. I was able to deduce that the starter is bad. Now onto another question: how does one find the starter?

Which measurement brought you there?  Mostly curious, however we might be able to validate your conclusion...

Follow the heavy wire from the battery + post, to the starter solenoid, then from the solenoid to the starter...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Matthew Smith
      2013 Bennche Bighorn 700 EFI
       I just picked up this project that I was told would crank, but not start.  This is what I’ve figured out so far….
      I installed a new battery and get all dash lights, head lights, and brake lights on when turning the ignition on.  Fuel pump even turns on.  It does not crank with the key, but would when I jumped the starter solenoid, so I replaced it…..no change.
      Figured I’d check for spark and compression while I was dorking around.  Compression is 110 psi, but there is no spark.  Replaced the spark plug… no change.
      So, is my new starter solenoid bad?  Could it be the brake or gear position switches even though the brakes and neutral lights come on?  Not sure where to go from here.




    • By Frank Mac67
      My Axis 500 has been operating properly for almost a year with Zero problems. While I was away my granddaughter & friends were riding & playing in the snow. They went to the gas station to fill the tank & the vehicle would not start afterwards. I BEEN GIVING MULTIPLE STORIES: The ATV will not start. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump come on but nothing happens other than that. 
      - NO CLICK - NO OTHER NOISE
      *I CHECKED THE BATTERY 12.43volts
      *I replaced the solenoid inside the battery compartment. 
      Seems the next electrical component in line has battery connections IN & motor connections OUT with 2 other small wires connectedaswell(I do not know the name of this component).
      Can anyone help?
      I can not find an ordered list of electronic components starting at the battery.
      Can anyone help with this?
      Thanks in advance for any help.
       
    • By lincolnsq175
      Ive searched and cannot find any performance parts that fit my machine.
      I have a 2020 coleman ut400.
      Im looking for machined sheave kit, programmers, cdi, exhaust and intake.
      I know these are yamaha rhino clones but are they rhino 450 clones?
       
      Any info is appreciated.
    • By Flanman55
      2007 Hisun HS700  will not crank.  Replace the ignition switch. Same thing.  Replaced solenoid by the battery same thing. Can jump it and it starts good across the solenoid posts. Ran a jumper wire from switch to solenoid. Nothing 
       
      can anyone suggest something else. 
×
×
  • Create New...