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Posted

My dominator will not start. I have checked and charged the battery. It runs all the lights at full brightness and all other electrical systems perfectly well (e.g. winch).  When I attempted to start the UTV, I hear a clicking noise underneath the battery but no other sound. 

My guess is that either the break or gear "start" solenoid is stuck. I noticed that the UTV will only start when the break is pressed and it is in park. If the solenoid that triggers either of these is stuck, that would explain no starting. Or, the starter is dead?

Any thoughts?

Posted

if it will start when only in park or the break is pressed it's was probably designed that way.  most SxS have neutral safety switch(es) to prevent starting when in gear.

Posted

with a click that implies the starter solenoid is getting power. it's just not able to pass it through, 99% of the time its a faulty solenoid that needs replaced.

next thing to do would be check battery voltage, at  the battery and at the solenoid and be sure they're the same reading.

Posted

Yea, that makes sense.  I haven't been able to find much information about the motor or UTV in general. Is there a manual/reference for the motor in that UTV? I found the UTV manual but all it says is "see dealer." This problem is fairly trivial to fix if it's just a solenoid replacement.

Posted

The brake and "park" interlocks (if present) are most likely to be just switches wired in series with the "start"position of the ignition switch--as there is relatively little power required to activate the starter solenoid (a fancy word for relay) it would make no sense to use additional solenoids for those safety devices.

The first thing I would check would be the voltage across the battery terminal clamps, not the battery posts,  but the cable clamps while attempting to crank the engine.

If the starter solenoid clicks and the observed voltage does not drop to 10.6 V or so then then it is probable the starter solenoid is bad--but don't rule out wiring or connections in the main supply to the starter motor just yet. If the voltage does drop to 10.6 V or so then the starter solenoid is good and  the starter nay be seized up or otherwise bad.

To check the main supply path to the starter measure the voltage between the positive battery post (post, not cable clamp) and the positive terminal stud on the starter--while attempting to crank the motor.

In an ideal world it would be 0.0 V, however in our world 0.1 to 0.25 V would be normal. If more than 0.5 V then there is a bad wire, connection, or some other component in the path 'tween the battery and the starter. Next measure voltage between the battery + post and the next connection "back" from the starter (likely the starter solenoid output terminal)--while attempting to crank the motor. Is that 0.1 o 0.25 V? If it is then the wire between the solenoid output and the starter is bad (corroded or loose terminal or ???).

If not measure between the battery +post and the starter solenoid input post (again while cranking). If that is low (0.1 to 0.25 V) then the solenoid primary contacts are bad--replace the solenoid. If high (>0.5 V) the cable from the battery to the starter solenoid is bad--OR-next measure between the battery + post and cable clamp. If high (>0.5 V) than the cable clamp/battery connection is bad.

Or just disconnect, clean, and reconnect each connection between the battery and starter motor--don't just look at them to see if they "look OK", take them apart and clean them, reconect with a dose og dielectric grease (or any grease you have on hand--even Vaseline from the bedside table will work!).

 

Posted
18 minutes ago, Ryan Knuth said:

Thanks, that's super helpful. I was able to deduce that the starter is bad. Now onto another question: how does one find the starter?

Which measurement brought you there?  Mostly curious, however we might be able to validate your conclusion...

Follow the heavy wire from the battery + post, to the starter solenoid, then from the solenoid to the starter...

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