Hisun E1 Parking brake
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By mac66
I bought a used 2021 Axis 500 last April. Low mileage and got it for considerably less than what they go for new.
The first thing I did was change the oil/fluids and also put a new drive belt on it. The only other thing I did to it was add a rear vinyl window that zips open and rolls up to keep the weather off.
I used it on my 52 acre property to check trail cameras, service the food plots, haul fertilizer, seed etc etc. It's has a good size bed and is not too big or small. It has worked well as a utility vehicle.
Other than using on the trails working around the property I haven't used it much off road...at least until last weekend when I went on 74 mile group ride around the county. In my state it's legal to ride on any road that's not a state or federal highway. The group started in town, rode about 30 miles on back roads to the state ORV trail system. Then did about 20 miles on the trails and then headed back via back roads to town.
It had rained for 2 days straight prior, so the trails were one mud hole after another. It was very challenging.
The good...
-It worked fine, never had any kind of issue with it since I bought it.
-It kept up with more expensive machines on the trails. I was the only one with a CCC (Cheap Chinese Crap) machine.
-Fairly comfortable to drive.
-The roof, windshield and rear window kept most of the rain off when it started raining in the afternoon.
-Okay, I cheated. I peeled off the AXIS 500 stickers on each side. Everybody in the group assumed I had a Rhino. They didn't ask, I didn't tell.
The not so good...
-The horsepower rating on the 500-cc engine is 24 hp but it seemed underpowered. While I could go about 35 mph with the pedal to the metal on pavement and hard packed dirt roads the best I could do on loose packed roads was 27 mph. I had trouble keeping up with the others in the group. It also bogs down on inclines in high gear. On the other hand, in low gear and 4wd I didn't have any problems going through mud or sand or up hills.
-It is LOUD! Had to wear shooting earmuffs to keep my ears from ringing while riding. Going to have to address that.
Overall Impression...
I was impressed with it on the trails, and it is a good utility vehicle for working around the property. Considering what I paid for it I am very happy with its performance.
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By Alien10
This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes.
A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did.
Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams.
up.
Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
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By Michigan sport.
I'm sure many of you are aware of Michigan's emergency brake requirement. I'm wondering if anyone has a good solution.
Beyond paying the few fab places $$$$.. I'm curious is there another rear caliper with e brake style that would interchange with slight mods to the Maverick sport rear mounting bracket?
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By TPlummer
We recently purchased the Axis x550. Fueled it with 93 fuel and drove one time around the farm and the 02 fault error appeared. Any ideas?
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By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
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