Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit!  Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches.  Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed  to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk.  That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable.  There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut.  Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.1883595306_E1Parkingbrakeadjustment.thumb.jpg.65e0d249b37f9eaed7f2e5e68907eff9.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I'd worked out how to do this a while back, but it's a useful tip. My biggest problem is that the mechanism gets covered in mud, as does the bit at the front which latches the brake on until you stamp on the foot brake pedal, causing both to seize up. For an off road vehicle, it's surprisingly open to the worst off road driving can throw at it!

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

The parking brake on the E1 is a very poor design. In the year I have owned it I have had to adjust it four or five times. I have to adjust about every month to six weeks. I think it was designed by an idiot. Which is possible because there are a bunch out there! I may have to put a hydraulic lock on the brake system. That will lock all four wheels. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

One weird thing that caught my eye is that in the owners manual in the section about storing the unit, there is a single sentence that says not to leave the parking break engaged when stored. What is up with that ? At the top of this section it says something like, "when not using  your utv for more than a few hours". Then it lists several things including taking off the parking break ???? Is this true ? What happens if you leave the parking break engaged ? Does it seize up or something ?

Posted

The parking brake on this unit is a JOKE.  It is a very crude disk brake on the drive shaft. I can imagine that it could NOT release if left engaged for a long period of time. But since it rarely works well I do not think that would be an issue, unless it had recently been adjusted to work. I find that after adjustment it works well for only a few weeks. It is a VERY POOR design. I carry a block of wood in mine to put under a wheel to hold it on a slope! I have discussed with my dealer about this issue, but have received no satisfaction . I have considered installing a brake line cut-off valve. It works by holding the pressure on your brake fluid (like having your your foot on the brake all the time), then when you push on the brake pedal it releases.

Posted

I agree the parking brake is not all that great of design.  Mine holds fine on a very steep slope, but doesn't always fully release.  I frequently leave mine setting for long periods of time with the parking brake on and have never noticed any ill effects from doing that.

Posted

The cable is fairly long with a number of sharp curves in it. Leaving it tight on will cause stretch, and then its going to need adjustment. Its not the greatest, but just consider it as part of regular maintenance, along with greasing the suspension grease points .  I guess people dont do that either.

The E1 may be electric but you still need to do maintenance. It does help with longer term ownership. Greasing the suspension bushes is really important and almost never done. Greasing pushes out the dirt that acts like grinding paste. Regularly pressure wash the bushes/ arms. It will help. Dry conditions with dust and sand can be really bad, wash off the excess grease / dust, re grease and wipe away the excess.  If you are really into maintenance, then strip wash and re grease all the suspension bushes annually. The propshaft has a number of grease points, and it may be easier to do this with the belly pan removed. 

If you catch the belly pan at the front edge. Dont leave this, I have had a couple with this and it then acts as a scoop , result even more crud inside. .  

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Recently my E1 has some sort of failure with the parking brake light system.   The light no longer comes on when the parking brake is engaged.   It used to be that the motor wouldn't run if the parking brake was engaged at all.   Now it will.   The problem with that is that in low range the e-drive  has more than enough torque to propel the vehicle despite the parking brake being on.  I first noticed the problem when I smelled the parking brake overheating while driving.

The bulb on the parking brake light is good because it comes on when I first turn the key on.   I have been unable to locate the switch that activates the parking brake light.   I called the dealer.   He would not give advice over the phone and insisted I bring it in.  They are too far away and it would likely tie up a couple of my days to do that.    I adjusted the park brake as Gorj showed.  So it holds stronger now, but unless you really press hard when you set  it, low range will still override the parking brake.

Anyone know where the parking brake light switch is?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By mac66
      I bought a used 2021 Axis 500 last April.  Low mileage and got it for considerably less than what they go for new.
      The first thing I did was change the oil/fluids and also put a new drive belt on it.  The only other thing I did to it was add a rear vinyl window that zips open and rolls up to keep the weather off.
      I used it on my 52 acre property to check trail cameras, service the food plots, haul fertilizer, seed etc etc. It's has a good size bed and is not too big or small.  It has worked well as a utility vehicle. 
      Other than using on the trails working around the property I haven't used it much off road...at least until last weekend when I went on 74 mile group ride around the county. In my state it's legal to ride on any road that's not a state or federal highway. The group started in town, rode about 30 miles on back roads to the state ORV trail system. Then did about 20 miles on the trails and then headed back via back roads to town.   
      It had rained for 2 days straight prior, so the trails were one mud hole after another.  It was very challenging.
      The good...
      -It worked fine, never had any kind of issue with it since I bought it.
      -It kept up with more expensive machines on the trails. I was the only one with a CCC (Cheap Chinese Crap) machine.
      -Fairly comfortable to drive.
      -The roof, windshield and rear window kept most of the rain off when it started raining in the afternoon.
      -Okay, I cheated. I peeled off the AXIS 500 stickers on each side. Everybody in the group assumed I had a Rhino. They didn't ask, I didn't tell.
      The not so good...
      -The horsepower rating on the 500-cc engine is 24 hp but it seemed underpowered. While I could go about 35 mph with the pedal to the metal on pavement and hard packed dirt roads the best I could do on loose packed roads was 27 mph. I had trouble keeping up with the others in the group.  It also bogs down on inclines in high gear.  On the other hand, in low gear and 4wd I didn't have any problems going through mud or sand or up hills.
      -It is LOUD! Had to wear shooting earmuffs to keep my ears from ringing while riding. Going to have to address that.
      Overall Impression...
      I was impressed with it on the trails, and it is a good utility vehicle for working around the property. Considering what I paid for it I am very happy with its performance.
    • By TPlummer
      We recently purchased the Axis x550. Fueled it with 93 fuel and drove one time around the farm and the 02 fault error appeared. Any ideas? 
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By felo72
      Hello all. I purchased a brand new Massimo Buck 250 EFI in June for our farm and I've had the parking brake fail on me twice. I have approximately 250 miles on the vehicle. The first time was less than a month after receiving the UTV. We all of a sudden lost brake pressure and it would not start. I tracked the issue back to the parking brake. Upon removing the chain cover, I noticed the brake pad was missing and the caliper piston was touching the rotor. I found a set of brake pads online and replaced them myself. It's worked for several months and just happened again. Seems like a design flaw. I'm reaching out to see if there's an upgrade option available, or if I should replace the entire caliper with the brake pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
      I submitted a warranty claim, so I'll keep this updated with what Massimo replies.
      When I replaced the brake pads the first time, back in July, my Son made a video on YouTube to show the unique caliper design. Here's a link if you wanted to check it out:
       


    • By Browner010
      Recently I had an overheating issue on my 2022 Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun UT550) and to check to make sure it was fixed I took it out for a ride around the block. After a couple cycles on the LED coolant meter, I took it for a couple mile ride and on my way back I heard a loud metallic snap then a grinding noise. It was still able to move under its own power but very slowly. I was about 2 blocks from the truck so 'I limped it home and up onto the trailer. I know I need to tear it apart and look for what broke, but anyone have a guess as to where to start? I'm seriously getting tired of this damn machine! 750 miles on it and already replaced the belt, wet clutch, primary clutch, clutch roller weights among a few other things. Seriously, this friggin machine has spent more time on the lift than on the road. I thought I bought this new because it was from the owner of a tractor supply, but he registered it under the stores name making me the 2nd owner voiding any and all warranties.
      Any Ideas what to look for would be appreciated.
      Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...