Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted
So, here's my story. I have a 2009 Hisun 700cc UTV. Started out as a freebie but you know nothing is free. I'm no mechanic but a neighbor is very good with this stuff and he's been doing all the work. I'm just doing all the cosmetic stuff. After replacing rings, piston, gaskets and seals, water pump, etc., he found that a circlip and a roll pin that hold the oil pump shaft in, have fallen off inside the engine at some time in the past. We don't know when or how long it's been driven that way. I got it from another neighbor who only drove it around the neighborhood once in a while. Anyway, the guy working on it thinks maybe we should just scrap the engine and find a replacement. I've heard the Yamaho Rhino 660 is almost a direct fit for the Hisun 700. My question is, "how direct?" Will it drop right into the same motor mounts? Will all the connections match up? Air box? Gearing? Carb? Sensors? This one is not fuel injected. OR-- If it's easier, where could I get a Hisun engine?

Thanks in advance for all your input.

 

 

20210312_142026.jpg

  • Alex changed the title to 2009 Hisun 700cc I think I need an engine
Posted
7 hours ago, cliffyk said:

Does it currently run? If so what problems does it exhibit indicating a new engine is in order?

Hi, thanks for answering.

It does run but there are two main issues. The first one is apparently combustion gases are getting into the coolant system. We replaced the piston and rings and after remounting the head and putting on a new water pump we bled the coolant lines. Or tried to. Jacked up as high as we could and bled with the bleeder screw and got all the air out, so we thought, and buttoned it up. Ran a few minutes and it appeared the coolant wasn't circulating: no warmth in the hose going toward the radiator. It would get warm a little just from convection in the hose. We bled again and got tons of steam/air out the bleeder screw. This process was repeated multiple times, each time we thought all the air was out, we found more had got in and came out as steam. We did get some circulation at one point: warmth in both hoses, but it didn't last. With radiator cap off it will run and heat up and of course start pushing coolant out the cap but only for a short time and then it stop bubbling over. Eventually the engine heat light comes on and we shut it down. 

Brad (neighbor) started tearing it down to check gaskets again, even though he had had the head off before and replaced them. He had checked it for warping, etc., back then. While checking the water pump again he noticed the shaft had a lot of play in it and when he pulled it, it came all the way out. This is also the oil pump shaft and the circlip and roll pin that should have held it in place in the oil pump were missing, apparently fallen down inside the case. He said it would take a special brand-specific tool that he doesn't have to get the case halves apart.  He thinks the oil pump is just splashing enough to keep it going but we have no idea how long it's been that way. The previous owner only ran it around the neighborhood and it never ran right for him so he didn't do much maintenance with it.  He moved away and it went with the property and the new owner took it to the local ATV shop and they didn't know what to do with the brand so the owner just gave it to me for plowing his driveway all winter. :)   But free isn't free, so I'm hunting for an engine. I have 7 Craigslist posts out and about 4 different forum posts....  Not hopeful.

Thanks again.

Rick

Posted

An engine is not going to be cheap; probably $3000 to $3500 unless you get real lucky--that's close to what an entire used rig might cost if you find a motivated seller that's not a divorced airline stewardess who wants to sell it via eBay Motors for a pile of Walmart gift cards ( I know why her husband divorced her). There are a few outfits on the web that rebuild ATV/UTV engines--I wonder what the special tools cost?

How is the compression? I have read that bleeding the coolant systems on some of these engines can be a bear--have you thought of borrowing from the AC industry and pulling a vacuum on it via the bleed plug? I did that years ago on a 1988 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 that did not want to cooperate. HF has a $90 2.5 CFM vacuum pump that works well, I've had mine for 7 or 8 years.--in fact on 12/31/2017 (Yes, New Year's Eve¹) we had our home AC replaced, the techs that did it had two vacuum pumps, neither would work. I asked if they'd like to use mine and after their initial shock it dd the job quite well.

 

---------------------------------------------------

¹ - We got a heck of a deal on the system as it was the last day  they could sell it due to it's SEER rating not meeting standards going into effect on 1/1/2018.

Posted

I'll ask him about the compression. I'm totally clueless on mechanical stuff. I'm just doing the cosmetic.  He's frustrated now and taking a few days off from it. I don't blame him.... :)

Thanks.

Rick

 

Posted

My understanding from scouring parts lists for my 400  is that the base engines (valve timing, lift, etc.) on the carb vs. EFI engines is the same--it's only the fuel system and controls that differ. I would expect the 700 to be the same.  I.E. your carburettor, fuel tank, etc. should work on an "EFI" engine...

Posted

Thanks for the reply.

The situation has changed, though. The EFI engine I almost had is out of the picture. The good news is, I found a local carbed engine so we're in the process of making that happen. :)

Thanks.

Rick

Posted
1 hour ago, cliffyk said:

Cool... Please let us know how it goes...

Will do. Thanks.

He has to order a gasket kit so we prolly won't get it for a couple weeks. 

Thanks, all.

Rick

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 3/15/2021 at 12:50 PM, Rick McGill said:

Will do. Thanks.

He has to order a gasket kit so we prolly won't get it for a couple weeks. 

Thanks, all.

Rick

Still waiting on the local guy to get more parts. His engine needed a flywheel and head bolts and apparently they're coming from China.... :(  I think I got this thing in January and it's still in pieces....

 

 

  • 2 years later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Your in luck I have a 2017 hisun Massimo knight 700cc engine with 49 hours on it (can prove with odometer reading) but can't find a control module for computer so putting another motor in it from a Honda 4x4 .so I'll take $1800 ( you pay shipping ) from VA ) WILL WARRANTY FOR NO SMOKEING OR OIL LEAKS .would suggest putting a inner clutch though.1 276 207 6461

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Jr Perez
      I need help when I put the key in and put to on position the neutral light turns on then shuts off I tried moving the shift linkage but the neutral light won't turn on it only has 651 miles cranks fine 2019 tboss 550
    • By Alien10
      I use my Hisun 550 (with the Coleman stickers), for general work around my 10 acres of hilly land. Hauling firewood, some dirt and mulch, and debris clean up. Also felling dead standing trees in the woods and hauling rounds out to the barn for splitting/stacking.
      Here's my question:  Those who use their UTVs with towed drag implements or snow plows, have you noticed any issues with early clutch slippage or failures?  Or premature belt wear?  Other drive line issues??
      Thanks in advance for any experienced thoughts and comments. 
       
    • By vachi
      hi everyone i have this 2021 Hisun forge 250 that won't start. no spark no fuel.   when i turn the key on i dont hear the relays click or fuel pump come on. it does have power but the relay doesnt ground the pump or the ignition coil. dont know if there are any safety switches on this model or not.  it does crank and all the accessories work. i  hot wired the pump and it does work.  i found a wiring diagram but it's very hard to figure out and was hoping someone has seen this before. all fuses are good. thanks in advance. 
    • By Gorj
      I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit!  Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches.  Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed  to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk.  That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable.  There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut.  Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By Duncan
      I got a utv from lowes it has one tire in the back that is the same size as the front tires so it has 3, 26-9-14 and 1 26-11-24. i want to change the rear tire to the same one as the other.So instead of buying a new rim will a 26-11-24 tire fit on a 26-9-14 rim.
×
×
  • Create New...