2009 Hisun 700 ------- Can you swap a Fuel-Injected Engine for a Carbed Engine?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Alien10
Maybe members can post where they have obtained parts and service for their Hisun produced UTVs and ATVs, including the Coleman lines. Maybe post the model you have, what you bought, and how the products were quality wise. Also if you had any shop service done, where (city & state) and how it worked out for you.
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By Graffy
Im new to the UTV world but not new to the fabrication world. Me and my friend have been focusing on designing and building a rallye-type setup with a custom chassis and a single seater. With suspension design at a good point, we want to start work on the chassis; however, there is one big hiccup in the way, and that is the powertrain. We've been going back and forth on this for quite some time now and realized that we cant find any great options. We want the engine to be behind the driver and mounted between the seat and the rear axle with a transaxle setup. We aren't going to need any power for the front wheels, as this is an RWD application (Toyota MR2 style setup). It also needs quite a small engine; I would love for it to be 100+ hp and possibly be turbocharged down the line, but power isn't a huge deal right now. Right now its a battle between a UTV engine X trans or a bike engine with a diff.
Although crotch rocket engines are super cool, they aren't built for high-torque applications, and a differential setup for one can range up to $6k, which is pretty ridiculous for our initial budget. (We are not going chain-driven as we have bad experience in that area.).
That's what leads us to UTV x Snowmobile drivetrains. I was initially surprised to find out how much power they have and realized it could be a great option with how they are designed for high torque applications. It is a difficult situation to find a good setup.
The transaxle needs to be either a manual or a sequential setup. And although there are some great engine options, with my limited knowledge in the UTV world, I have yet to find a transaxle that fits or works well with those engines.
So my questions are this: Does anyone know of a good combo or might be able to lead me down a direction? Could it be damaging to an AWD transmission if nothing is connected to the front output shaft and only the rear diff?
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By SpaceGhost
As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?
Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)
Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6.
It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks.
The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires)
The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride.
They will be coming off.
Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained.
Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return.
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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