Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have never liked the cord in the glove box to charge the E1. It takes up to much room and in the winter the cord is very stiff. So I decided to  install a charge port like the EV's have. I purchased a weatherproof socket to install in the side of the E1. Wired the charge cable to the socket and installed it.  So much easier now to plug the charge cord into the socket, and I have more room in the glove box.

On another note: Since I have owned the E1 I have noticed a rattle in the right front area but I never could locate it until last week when I had the E1 up in the air on a lift. When I grabbed the right front wheel it a play in it.  So I removed the wheel and torqued the nut on the drive shaft and the play is gone.  I am thinking when it was assembled the nut was just hand tightened and the cotter pin installed.  I also found that the left front nut was not tight either. Backs were OK.

Hisun charge port 1.jpg

Hisun charge port 2.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Very neat. I might do this myself. The cable in the glove box is such an afterthought. Mine even has a UK plug on it that came from Tesco - our biggest supermarket chain - rather than anything branded. Interesting what you say about loose nuts. My buggy knocks and clatters like it's falling apart. Time to get the torque wrench out!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Most likely loose steering rod ends or something else in the suspension. If you jack the front up so the wheels are off the ground then grab one of the wheels and try to rock it you should be able to see where there's too much play in any of the bolts attaching the suspension bars to the main body or in the track rod ends. These all take quite a battering, especially if you're going fast over rough terrain.

Posted

If it's only done 85 miles then it sounds like something's not been tightened up properly at the factory! Best of luck tracking it down, and bear in mind what Gorj found with his drive shaft nuts. Might just be a wobbly wheel.

Posted

Might try checking to see if your wheels are tight. Lit it up in the air at each wheel and see if there is any play in the wheel. If so take out the cotter pin and tighten the nut. Simple.

Posted

I was going to ask, re the original post - what is that socket called - do you have a link? I've looked online but can only come up with 12v lighter sockets or something designed for caravans. I might not be able to source something identical in the UK, but knowing what to look for is half the battle with search engines!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.
    • By staind
      Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM. 
      I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc. 
      I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking. 
      This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
      I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
      This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever. 
      thanks Dan D. aka staind
    • By Roadstar515
      Just wondering if mine is the only one that’s seems very loud while driving. It just seems louder that other brands I’m use to. I guess you get what you pay for I’m assuming.
      Regards, Rick
    • By Brett
      Fuel injected 700 starts great and idles great but touch the gas and it dies
×
×
  • Create New...