Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

WOW, what a difference! First let me say I will have pics up soon, maybe tonight.

Wheels are the 15" Visionwheel.

Tire is Dunlop Radial Mud Rover, 31X10.50R15LT.

They fit, I do need to make a small adjustment to the rear of the Front suspension to get full lock to lock turning. At present I have 3/4+ but there is plenty of adjustment in the supension to get full lock to lock. Everything else clears easily.

Ground Clearance is now a full 13 1/2".

Gearing, First gear is now more like a 50's pickup granny gear instead of the factory tractor first gear. First gear is usable! Plenty of low range remaining, but all gears are much more usable. I now cruise thu the neigborhood in 4th instead of 5th. I will have my better 3/4 follow me with the car to check speedo and top-end. My guess top-end is easily 70mph.

Flotation on sand. I went down the wash behind the house where I would normally flip into 4Wd. Never came close to needing 4WD, stayed in 2WD the entire time. I was running the full 30psi put in the tires at the tire shop. I have since aired down to 20 in the front and 24 in the rear so performance should even be better.

Standing Start performance appears to be as good as before or better. You can now use 1st or 2nd to take off from a complete stop.

Needless to say, I could not be more pleased. The setup has met every one of my wishes & expectations.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

You do not reliaze how hard the stock tires are untill you put something else on, just getting a tire that gives alittle to the ground makes a big difference. glad your gear fits. Sorry about haveing to come home on 3 legs, glad to hear you are home.

Posted

It's good to finally get a report on gearing with 30"+ tires. I would be susprised If you couldn't cut tire pressure even lower without any problems. I plan on going to larger tires when, well when the stock market starts to come back. It may be a while.

good report

Lenny

Posted

I will be going down on the air pressure in steps until I find that optimum sweet spot.

It is great that we are all working in different areas improving the Trooper. It is becoming a real BEAST! The tires make is look like a real machine and not a toy. It sort of got huge! It is taking more and more room in the garage.

Watching what you are all doing also.

Yeah Flatbed, taking the Toyhauler in tomorrow. Have to have that thing fixed for the March trip to El Golfo.

I haven't forgot about the spare tire inquiries. Well respond this weekend.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

I painted the top of the helm joints today to mark their present location and to make it easier to count the number of turns as I move the suspension. Tomorrow I will make the adjustment. Wheel width is now 68", I measured my wife's car and it is 64". IMHO, this ain't a UTV anymore.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

I completed the adjustment today. I now have full lock to lock steering. What should have been an easy job turned into a pain in the ***. The front suspension is built rigid with very little adjustment, just looks like there is lots of adjustment. The front helm joints have 12 1/2 turns to full install. My helms were full in. I was able to back the right side out 4 turn and the left side out 3 turns. I followed up with some fine tuning with a large adjustment tool, hammer, to assure sufficient clearance. I would have liked to backed out 6 turns but there was too much binding. There is not hardly any caster adjustment. Tow-in was fine and did not have to be changed.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

An Observation!

Before with the smaller rims/tires, the front took a local speed bump / tope smoother with the back wheels banging the harder. Now with the bigger rims/tires, the back is smoother over the speed bump / tope and the fronts hit noticeably harder. What ya think? I checked and both front and rear still have lots of free up/down movement when sitting still and myself jumping on the nose or tail.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

The increase in percentage of the fronts sprung weight to the unsprong weight is greater then the rear percentage change. You use up forward energy to force the unsprung weight up and over an object. If the unsprung weight was 0, you wouldn't feel anything period. No energy would be used up to move something weightless. The heavier the unsprung weight, the more of a jolt you will feel when hitting the bump. The back having a lesser percentage change doesn't telegraph the bump as much. This is why you always here that its improtant to keep unsprung weight down as much as possible. I also suspect that your dampening was a little stiff for the smaller tires on the rear. The bigger tires take longer to go over the hump, thus dampening felt softer. I'm not sure I really know what I'm talking about but I do know my physics quite well, besides, I'm sure flatbed will straighten things out. I like taking a shot at something, but it's always a good idea not to follow my lead.

Lenny

Posted

Let me see if i can explain this, I think what you might have going on is the front tires are bigger so there is more cantact to the road surface, plus with more of a contact patch with the amount of air you have in the tire is making your spring rate in the front seem higher. The front of the trooper is lighter than the back so you would feel it more. If you look at the tire preasure on any tire it is telling you, say 45lbs at 2700lbs of weight on a tire. That is the amount of air they want you to run if you have that much weight on that corner of the car. My f350 they want me to run 75lbs in the tires, i run around town empty with 45 in the front and 35 in the back, i get very even tire wear and about 45000 on the tires. I aair them up when i haul the 5th well because the tires are running at there max. When you are listening to Nascar, you hear them talking about droping or rasing air preasure, what they are doing is changing the contact patch on the track or CHANGING THERE SPRING RATE. When the tire is softer it it obsorbs some of the energy. Like lenny says there is probably more of difference between the old and new fronts than there is the rears, so you are feeling the fronts more. One other thing that might help explain theis is when you look at the gvw sticker on your car it will tell you what air preasure to run in the stock tires, they are telling you to run a certain lb of air for the weight of that vehickle. I have probably confused you even more. P S I have to run alot of air in my bicykle tires.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks! The performance change is great! As we know these things will climb anything. A couple of places where I off-road, I use to have to use power. I can now crawl. Gearing is more friendly and I believe it is faster thu the gears. Clearance of the rear of the front tire and the firewall is good. I was out and hit a small wash that was deeper than I thought and the entire tire dropped in as I crossed. The tire never hit the firewall. Very, very happy with the upgrade. Got the tires off Craig's list from a guy who was upgrading to bigger tires for his Jeep. Saved a ton of money and I don't think I will ever wear them out, probably will cut a tire first. I believe but can't verify yet, the Trooper runs cooler at speed and under load in sand as the engine is turning fewer RPMs.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

  • 1 year later...
Posted

WOW, what a difference! First let me say I will have pics up soon, maybe tonight.

Wheels are the 15" Visionwheel.

Tire is Dunlop Radial Mud Rover, 31X10.50R15LT.

They fit, I do need to make a small adjustment to the rear of the Front suspension to get full lock to lock turning. At present I have 3/4+ but there is plenty of adjustment in the supension to get full lock to lock. Everything else clears easily.

Ground Clearance is now a full 13 1/2".

Gearing, First gear is now more like a 50's pickup granny gear instead of the factory tractor first gear. First gear is usable! Plenty of low range remaining, but all gears are much more usable. I now cruise thu the neigborhood in 4th instead of 5th. I will have my better 3/4 follow me with the car to check speedo and top-end. My guess top-end is easily 70mph.

Flotation on sand. I went down the wash behind the house where I would normally flip into 4Wd. Never came close to needing 4WD, stayed in 2WD the entire time. I was running the full 30psi put in the tires at the tire shop. I have since aired down to 20 in the front and 24 in the rear so performance should even be better.

Standing Start performance appears to be as good as before or better. You can now use 1st or 2nd to take off from a complete stop.

Needless to say, I could not be more pleased. The setup has met every one of my wishes & expectations.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Now that i have the 30" x 15's on mine just wondering what was the final pressure you found to work,I will be taking mine out this weekend for the first time with thes tires and wheels and would like to know a good starting point for the pressure.

Thanks,

Posted

Hello Rick,

I am not home to measure but I believe I am around 15 to 20 pounds with the 31's. Kinarfi is running 30's and would be better with that size. Remember you may have to air down in sand.

rocmoc n AZ/CA

Posted

Hello Rick,

I am not home to measure but I believe I am around 15 to 20 pounds with the 31's. Kinarfi is running 30's and would be better with that size. Remember you may have to air down in sand.

rocmoc n AZ/CA

I run 8 pounds in the front and 10 in the back. My tires are General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR OWL http://ssl.delti.com.../GRABBERAT2.jpg

The side walls bulge just a little and I don't change them for sand or rocks, I think they're great! A lot softer than when I was running them at 30, hard as a rock, remember, we don't weigh very much. Check parts and pieces if you want to know what we weigh.

Kinarfi

Posted

I run 8 pounds in the front and 10 in the back. My tires are General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR OWL http://ssl.delti.com.../GRABBERAT2.jpg

The side walls bulge just a little and I don't change them for sand or rocks, I think they're great! A lot softer than when I was running them at 30, hard as a rock, remember, we don't weigh very much. Check parts and pieces if you want to know what we weigh.

Kinarfi

right now(in the garage) I have the front at about 12 and rear at 15.I dont plan on any sand at this point but if that happens will adjust.I am really looking forard to see what difference they make.Thanks guys,If I get stuck I will give you a call(LOL).

Posted

I run the higher psi because it is easier to turn and with the 31's I have plenty of flotation. Also beware the lower the pressure, the easier to pop a bead if you hit something with the sidewall. I popped the bead on one of the factory tires at the higher factory pressure. Bummer to change tires on the trail.

rocmoc n AZ/CA

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)

      My vehicle is (at least not yet) not a UTV, however, it is an ATV, A 2001 Kawasaki Prairie 400.
       

       
      BTW, That's Brandy, my former PTS/TBI service dog on the bike. RIP old girl. She's internet famous. Perhaps you've seen her before...
       

       
      The reason I'm here is that Arthritis is starting to set into my wounds and my mobility is getting worse. I will be selling the quad bike soon, and going with a SXS, and have selected a Can Am model as the replacement, so I figured I had better get on board a forum somewhere. Just put in for my Guard retirement, and will be very soon looking to get into a Commander 6x6.

      Wouldn't mind having the Limited with the Hvac system, but am really not sure it's worth the extra 10 grand or not. Plus it's 500 pounds heavier, and I prefer the doors off in nice weather. It's so much easier when working in the yard, and so much more fun when on the trail.

      Anyway, I'm here now, so it will help me research more and make up my mind. Plus once I have it, I'll be able to share stories about it and of course, continue to learn more, as it will be my 1st sxs. Still have time before I get my retirement. Takes a good 90 days at least according to the guy I talked to... Typical government efficiency... lol.
       
    • By GaryC
      Unfortunately my rear Diff housing cracked on my 2013 and I need to replace it or find a good used complete differential.  I think the same one was used from 2013-2016?  Any help or referrals appreciated.  Thanks, Gary  (949)370-2575 (in UT)
    • By lowgear52
      Has anyone purchased a rear differential from Alibaba, they want $432.00 for diff and $35.00 for shipping. This would be a great deal if I can trust them any thoughts?
    • By Alien10
      This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes. 
      A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new,  the E brake stopped working.  Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding.  Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain.   So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and  felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case.  As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement.  Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B".  Working from below, here is what I did.
      Removed the skid plate below the E brake.   6 bolts and washers.  Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each.  Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D".  Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow.  Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing.  Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever.  With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so.  Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped.  Retightened lock nut "B".   E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely.  Reinstalled skid plate.  Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams. 
       up.
      Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
       
       
    • By klm
      So here is my dilemma, I bought a 2014 Massimo MSU500 eleven years ago from TSC, its never been off the farm, had my share of ups and downs with it but never walked back to the house. I have bought a Kubota Sidewinder and it is a fine machine.Problem is I just dont need the Massimo and would like to sell it but the last thing want to do is sell it (cheap) to someone who doesn't realize what a POS a Massimo  can be and can't afford to maintain it.  I plan to put it of Craigslist with pictures and description, not sure how to warn potiential buyers without scaring them away.  I feel like it could be a great buy for the right person or a terrible buy for the wrong person.  I'm thinking $2500.
×
×
  • Create New...