Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

When I start my Massimo MSU500 with cold engine and start off in L gear I hear a loud bang or snap and then it goes.  Doesn't do it once engine is warmed up.  Is idle too high or is  cold idle controlled by CPU?  I couldn't find any help on Youtube.  Maybe shift linkage?  I would greatly appreciate any input.  Thanks, I am new to the group and appreciate this forum.

Vince

 

Posted

No, it's a hard SNAP almost like it didn't quite get in gear and then loudly slaps into place and sometimes the UTV will jump ahead slightly even with my foot on the brake.

Posted

Could be shift linkage adjustment, or a problem with the shift drum/forks/cogs in the transmission. The idle speeed is controlled by the engine managemeny computer--it should be 1400-1500 rpm. What idle speed are you seeing?

How many miles/hours on the beast?

Does letting the engine warm just a bit (30-60 seconds) help? 

What grade of engine oil are you running (synthetic or conventional--the ttansmission is in the engine crankcase, lubricated by engine oil)?

When was it last changed?

Sorry for all the questions...

Posted

Thanks for the response.

It has 275 miles on it.

Yes, if engine warms up for a minute or so it shifts just fine.

Oil used is 10W40 conventional oil and it was changed within the last few days.

This morning I put transmission in neutral then loosened then tightened the shift rod  nuts as per maintenance manual.  I don't know if it helped or not because engine is warm.  I will try it again tomorrow AM and see if it made a difference.

Posted

Unfortunately due to the rather crude shifting mechanisms in these things (sliding cogged collars) stiff shifting when cold is normal--'cold" being not hot, not cold as in "Brrrr". My Hs400 does it going into reverse on each day's first ride regardless of how I adjust the linkage. You can try synthetic oil--it might help. I'm going to use 5W40 synthetic at my next change.

-cliff-

Posted

On the Coleman 550 outfitter, similar or same thing.  Easy fix.  Hold gear shift lever in low position until you start moving, then it’s fine.  Annoying, and shouldn’t be like that, but they are what they are.  Make sure you are using correct oil, I’m assuming 400 also has a wet clutch.  I could be wrong

Posted

I had downloaded the service manual and followed it's procedure.  Simple and seemed to help but don't ask me how.  Place transmission in N then loosen the nuts on each end of the shift rod (right side is righty loosey.  Then retighten them.

Posted
5 hours ago, cwikscan said:

I had downloaded the service manual and followed it's procedure.  Simple and seemed to help but don't ask me how.  Place transmission in N then loosen the nuts on each end of the shift rod (right side is righty loosey.  Then retighten them.

Cool...

The shift drum in the tranny has detents and a spring-loaded ball that "snap" it into the selected gear--loosening and re-tightening  the linkage in neutral allows it to re-align itself with the drum's neutral position.

Posted
On 4/8/2021 at 1:44 PM, cwikscan said:

Good info Cliff.  Thanks.  I may try the synthetic route next oil change.

....be sure the oil you use is compatible with WET CLUTCHES .. I use Actevo 10W30 from Castrol for wet clutch applications in my MSU 500....                          from AMSOIL  ....." ......unfortunately, automotive motor oils for gasoline service; both synthetic and conventional, contain friction modifiers. Friction modifiers are additives that literally reduce friction and improve fuel economy. All automotive engine oils for gasoline service are now  mandated to contain these. Simply put, friction modifiers are incompatible with motorcycle wet clutches. They will cause the clutch to slip under load and eventually glaze the clutch plates until failure occurs . Once this occurs, the only cure is a replacement of the clutch plates"

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I have a massimo 500 we have replaced the wet and dry clutches . 
it works in low gear. Every once in a while it will leap to a stop.  It goes in low but when we try to put it in high it grinds and will not go.  Any advise on things to check before we replace the transmission. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By SouthernGypsy
      We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
      Trying to figure out where it belongs...
       




    • By Justine
      I've had a Hisun Vector E1 for just a bit longer than is required for me to do some maintenance. While it's well-overdue, it only drives 1.5km a few times each week on a fairly decent gravel road (to the letterbox), and it has worked really well right from the get-go.
      Looking at the manual it states that I need to use SAE80 API GL-4 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Main gear Case, and SAE80 API GL-5 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Front gear Case - unfortunately i can't find either of those online here in Australia. Plenty of options that look close, but, as someone who has never driven any vehicle before, I want to use the right thing and it's a tad confusing.
      My question: Since there are no oils that are bang on SAE80 (they all seem to cover a range) would Liqui Moly Hypoid GL4 Gear Oil 80W-90  & Motorex Hypoid GL-5 Gear Oil 80W90 - be ok to use? (Or any other suggestions of what I might be able to purchase online in Australia) And would I have to drain out any existing oil from both gear cases?
      This is a whole new world for me and  being able to find exactly what is specified in the manual hasn't made this easy!
    • By JOSEPH LAMAR
      I have a 2020 axis 500 and I have replaced the TPS twice and the whole throttle body assembly once and still have code 122. I can barely drive the thing. It bucks and surges like crazy
    • By Texjpr
      2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass  switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
    • By Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
      Will NOT START
      MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
      I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site. 
      I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power. 
      So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away. 
      Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home.  After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it. 
      So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock. 
      Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power,  turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner.  So after that the AICV was  making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START.  I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector.  I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail.  I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore.  I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems.  But this SxS is kicking my ass.
      So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it.  Thank you for reading thus far.
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...