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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By vachi
hi everyone i have this 2021 Hisun forge 250 that won't start. no spark no fuel. when i turn the key on i dont hear the relays click or fuel pump come on. it does have power but the relay doesnt ground the pump or the ignition coil. dont know if there are any safety switches on this model or not. it does crank and all the accessories work. i hot wired the pump and it does work. i found a wiring diagram but it's very hard to figure out and was hoping someone has seen this before. all fuses are good. thanks in advance.
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By Gorj
I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit! Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches. Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk. That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable. There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut. Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.
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By Bjabbarw
My 2021 Odes Dominator 800 bogs down at 25mph and won’t go over that speed. I have changed the fuel pump and it still does the same, it runs and idles fine, it has great reverse speed, but it won’t accelerate past 25mph. Any Ideas?
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By Michigan sport.
I'm sure many of you are aware of Michigan's emergency brake requirement. I'm wondering if anyone has a good solution.
Beyond paying the few fab places $$$$.. I'm curious is there another rear caliper with e brake style that would interchange with slight mods to the Maverick sport rear mounting bracket?
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