Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2004 R4 that has armstrong steering and I would like to add Power steering to it, if its not to difficult. Grand kids cant drive it, is that a good thing?, nah.

Any help would be appreciated.

Later,

Kenny

Joyner.jpg

Posted

It’s relatively simple…but I don’t know if I’d make it too comfy for the grandkids

You can use an electric column out of a 2009 Nissan Versa (or other cars COROLLA, Prius, Kia, cube, Yaris)…easy to find a remove in the junkyard, don’t even have to get under the car! Get the whole thing including the steering wheel and ECU (computer).
I had to weld on a piece of angle iron to get it mounted, but the steering shaft actually fit perfectly onto my 2009 T4 rack.
Connect + and - to the winch battery connections and the third wire to a switched 12v source, and you can turn that beast with one finger.
Cost me $125 and I have been wheeling the Tennessee rocks and mud for years on 30” tires without any issues!
I’ve got a post on here somewhere about it…Joyner trooper power steering.

Posted

Thanks mixfixdave!!!  Is the ecu for the whole car? or just for the steering?

We have 12 grandkids with #13 on the way.  Gotta keep em busy.

I' not familiar with new cars, AT ALL, they dont need a pump and rack?

Thanks for the help!

Kenny

Posted

The ECU is just for the power steering…controls the electric motor/assist that is built into the column. Just follow the short wiring harness.
You keep your rack and maybe some of the original shaft (I did), the EPS just gives you some assist.
It’s also a great upgrade for an old muscle car because no hydraulics are necessary.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I ordered the steering column from the local wrecking yard ( they didn't have one on hand) $150.00 with tax. He didnt know if it would come with the control unit though. Was yours connected to the column?  It should be here this afternoon!

Thanks!

Kenny

Posted

It was there! Along with everything else,  except the airbag. Going to start stripping the un-nessesary things and then ill be back for info on how to wire it up. ALL wiring looks like spaghetti to me.

Thanks again!

Kenny

Posted

Wiring is the easy part…
Big red and black wires go to your winch power connections (batt + -).
Then the orange wire from the ECU connects to a switched 12v source.
All the other wires are unused.
Turn it on (12vdc+ to orange wire) then give it 5 seconds and you will be turning with one finger!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Sad to admit, my project has taken the back seat to other things. I am wondering though, how much has to be removed to add the  power steering unit? Hood, dash...?

Thanks,

Kenny

Posted
9 minutes ago, mixfixdave said:

Just the hood…and you’ll be glad you did.
It’s so simple, don’t overthink it.

Well actually that's what I do best, overthink things!!!

Thanks again!!!

Kenny

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Homeowner A
      I was randomly and briefly able to connect to my Coleman UTV 400s ECU the other day twice and haven't been able to since.  When I was able to access it, I found the following codes and wondered if anyone may know where I should start or what I should look at?  
      P0031 - O2 Sensor Heater Control Voltage Low
      P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Voltage Low
      P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High
      P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Voltage High
      P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure
       
    • By CapnWalleye
      Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
      - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
      - replaced the fuel injector.
      - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
      - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
      - replaced the battery.
      - replaced the O2 sensor.
      Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
       
    • By Marie
      Hello, we recently got a 2013 Hisun 800 as a little project for my husband and I to work on. Turns out the guys before us loved the mud anyway. We have replaced the stator and now going to do the Rectifier but here is the hold up as seen in the picture. There are tons of wires going to the battery. I cant seem to find anything that shows what wires should, or shouldn't be attached to the battery or where these 2 plugs go. if someone would please take some pics or share knowledge to where they go I would appreciate it greatly.
    • By A P
      Hi
      I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode. 
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...