Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

While I am the first one to blast HISUN and everyone involved with them  for poor quality and nonexistent warranty ....since I "hybridized" my Massimo with a bunch of  Yamaha parts, its managed to be a decent machine .. Altho I did pull out several handfuls of my remaining hair in the beginning

Posted

Yeah with the Yamaha timing components, cam and valves the motor was better and maybe that cratered the trans? So a Yamaha motor will probably gut the axles...

Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Yes there are definitely junk engines! I have a 2018 with 3100 miles on it and it's crap it will not idle and overheats extremely fast cannot even take it out of the yard...

 

 

Posted

We found that bypassing the thermal switch on radiator to make fan run continuously when key is on, ended the overheating.....of course  thats after we replaced the head gasket, then the warped burnt  head and  gasket again.. in beginning on hot day, it would overheat in 1-2 miles.... We tested their settings for switch. The fan engaged at 238 degrees if I remember correctly .. and the switch is on the COLD  side!!!  how hot was the engine ??? 250* -260*??  The heat in the cab was unbearable, I would be drenched in sweat in minutes.   .. now with a new adjustable switch and engine staying 150*-160* , the cab is pleasant..  I would also Check yours to see if head gasket is fried. look for air bubbles in recovery bottle while idling hot.  and / or water in oil. 

Posted

Just an fyi

Ive worked on a few hisuns biggest issue with 700 750 is that when the engine was installed it was installed at the wrong angle and when going uphill it runs low on oil. Add 1 liter or quart of oil from full and re mark the dip stick.

This will solve a lot of issues especially with timing chain and wet clutch.

  • Confused 1
Posted

wouldnt running that much  oil OVERFULL in a small engine like this  cause oil  leaks and oil burning ? That level  increases pressure in crankcase, and excessive oil  being slung by crank into cylinder walls and reduced power because of the drag on crank ....just sayin

Posted

What your saying is true in some cases like very small 4 stroke, however the hisun has a built in windage tray for the crank, no spash.

Also due to the icreased volume of the case, it has a transmission built in, excess crank pressure isnt really an issue.

Either way avoiding catastrophic engine failure due to lack of oil is the key here.

Also i was incorrect it starves when going steep downhill not up.

  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Mike Jenkins
      I have a 2013 Hisun with a 686 Yamaha engine.
      I purchased it from an individual and it ran fine as long as the battery was full.
      I replaced the stator and now it will not start (run).  It cranks fine, has fuel pressure, but will not fire up.  I replaced the coil, no luck there.
      a technician told me that it was the wrong stator and wants a mint to replace it.
      the wires all plugged in when I installed the stator.
       
    • By HighSon
      This mod is not for the fainthearted, as it requires some basic metal fabrication and welding skills.  But the result is worth the effort IMO.  I chose an aftermarket Honda Talon windshield based on economy, size, and construction (aluminum frame, DOT glass, folding, windshield).  It fits OK, a little narrow at the top, and you need to incorporate the lower section of the original acrylic windshield and build some additional plates, but better than being too wide.  If you are wondering why I attacked this mod, it's because mine is driven daily on the street.  Tired of fading, scratchy, hazy plastic.  Sucks in the rain; sucks at night.  Now I can see.


    • By GunnersTacklebox
      Hi All,
      New here, but bought a 2022 Sector 750 brand new last march (old stock up here in Canada)
      It's a good bike so far, but I have noticed a quirk and was wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue?
       
      The issue I've had is if I leave the utv parked on any incline, not even a major incline, and leave it to sit for a while (day or two) it will not start properly. It will turn over and not fire until I press the gas pedal, when it will run and rev up, but if I let off the gas it will die. It will keep doing this until I either start it in gear and drive it for a bit or leave it in neutral and roll it down the hill to flatter ground. where it will have to sit for a while. 
      If I park it on a decline there is no issue. fuel is not low, it's occurred a couple times now. 
       
      Any thoughts on the cause of this? Dealership just says bring it in and let them take a look, at my expense of course. 
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Jon Spruill
      Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...