Hisun Sector E1 charging issue

[CharlieR]

Hi,

I'm having a problem with my Hisun E1 and it's not charging. There is a flashing red light on the charging section of the console and the error code "038.E" on the charger itself (underneath). Does anyone know what the code means or what the problem might be?

Any help would be much appreciated!

[Travis]

I'd get in touch with HiSun and give them the code it is showing

https://www.hisunmotors.com/contact/us/

[Osney]

This might be the cooling fan not kicking in. It's a rubbish bit of design, right at the front where it can get filled with crud or power-washed. Try spinning the fan with a small screwdriver or stick to make sure nothing's jamming it. I've read that the connections can get corroded, so try disconnecting and reconnecting all the connectors, checking them for corrosion and cleaning if necessary. I had a problem with mine with the fan no coming on and the red light flashing, but it would charge - just very slowly.

[EVSupport]

The fault code is a fan problem. Firstly check there is no debris stuck in the fan. Dont just poke the fan, if there is debris, then you need to clear it all out, otherwise the fault will just return. The next fault I have dealt with was because the connection block (top left as you look at the charger) was full of mud and dirt. Pull out the mains plug or ensure the charge lead is unplugged. Remove the cover, two torx screws. Pull the cover forward. Dont put anything in the crud yet. The two large wires are attached to the battery. Short them and you will cause some damage. You could disconnect the main battery connections if you are unsure.  So only excavate using a small plastic item, slowly and gently clear the muck out, use an air line with low pressure, a small brush may help. or a plastic ended vacuum cleaner nozzle (Tape a piece of plastic garden hose into the vacuum cleaner nozzle)When all is clear you will see the small wires entering the junction box from the right these are the fan wires. They are polarity conscious. So take a photo or note which wire goes where. Now with a set of long nose pliers pull off the spade terminals, do not pull the wires. I found that the spade terminals were not clean and ended up replacing the female connectors on the leads. The negative was however oxidised, so you have to clean that off. I use  a scotch bright pad or very fine sand paper. You will find this easier to do with the fan out. But thats a bit more work to get the cover off and the fan out. The original connectors were crimped and soldered. I repeated that.  Dont use insulated crimps as the electrical contact may be poor and the oxidisation insufficiently removed. The std crimp is a better all round crimp rather than the insulated which is really a two side squash.   Before you reconnect the fan test it with a 12v supply. (note the polarity again). WIth the connectors off the spade terminals, try and clean them.  A non metallic nail sanding strip/file can be useful. Clean the inside of the plastic cover before  you put it back. Test. hopefully all is good. If not then its a service time with the DeltaQ charger.

The photos show some of the  problems with dirt in the charger.

[Redfox]

Does anyone know what code 3.E01 on my E1 charger is?

[Osney]

Might be E013 here? https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360044018472-IC-RC-ICL-Series-Faults-and-Error-Codes

[EVSupport]

If it is E013  There is no 3.E01 code, then first thing is to check all of the battery connections, These have m8 bolts  but with 10mm, 13mm and 14mm heads . I have seen all on E1s most do seem to be 13mm heads but a lot of the latest have had the 10mm these are a horrible bolt, and appear to have been painted. I would change these for m8x 20mm stainless screws. Dont just try the cable to see if its loose, actually put a socket on and tighten them. Ideally you should use an insulated Ratchet and socket etc. But if you dont have that , at least lessen any shorting issues by using heat shrink sleeve on the socket and extension and tape up the ratchet. Shorting across batteries can make a real mess, and there is a good chance that you will hurt yourself trying to remove the sparking melting ratchet.

 

[Redfox]

Thanks so much for your assistance and advice. Have a blessed day 

[Redfox]

I tighten all most all the battery connector and my problem still exists.  Do you or anyone else have any suggestions. Thank you in advance for your help. 

[Redfox]

Problem solved!  It was a 30A fuse tied to the frame above the batteries. The fuse was in pieces 

[Redfox]

[EVSupport]

We always assume the obvious. Glad you have found the problem.

 

[Daniel Goodwin]

Sorry to bring up a zombie thread but this was very helpful for me. My E1 stopped charging today and I found this thread and determined it to be the same exact cause. Not only was the 30 amp fuse toast, it had melted all the rubber housing around it. I extracted the fuse but I think its so badly burned I couldn't put a fresh fuse in it. I can probably by a new wire and fuse housing and splice it together but my concern is that perhaps the 30 amp fuse is too small for this task? If multiple people's fuse is melting down? Should I try to use a larger fuse? 

[Osney]

A fuse is designed to stop the system from drawing too much current, so changing it for a larger one is probably not a good idea! Replace it with an identical one, and hope it doesn't blow again, as that would indicate something else wrong in the charging circuit.

[Redfox]

My fuse holder was badly distorted as well, but I was able to remove all the old fuse pieces and replace with a new 30A fuse. After a charge, the fuse was still intact and working properly 

[Daniel Goodwin]

I think its interesting that this wire has a 30 amp fuse in it but the other one has a 50 amp fuse. Seems like a mismatch but perhaps different purposes. 

[Savage3]

The destroyed fuse is the machines way of making you aware that an electrical problem exists.

I would find the problem before it causes more damage.

Begin by finding a service manual. 

Next, use ohms law and begin testing.

[Savage3]

7 hours ago, Redfox said:

My fuse holder was badly distorted as well, but I was able to remove all the old fuse pieces and replace with a new 30A fuse. After a charge, the fuse was still intact and working properly 

I suspect this problem will reappear. When it does, check the current draw on the starting circuit.