Brake Question

[utvinwv]

Hello all. I just bought a new camo trooper (as it only has 32 miles on it right now) and was wondering if anyone else has any problems holding back coming down steep grades or when setting the park brake on an incline?

[Russ]

The brakes are just single piston calipers so they will feel alittle weak but I have had no problems with them. When you get a few more miles on it they should start to feel somewhat better.

[utvinwv]

Thanks for the reply!

[Kinarfi]

Another possibility is that they need bleeding, if you have access to a power bleeder, try that and pump the handle as you bleed. My hand brake works good and has been a life saver, so to speak, I use it to hold me still while I rev the engine prior to letting the clutch out.

[Guest Lenny]

I use the emergency brake to hold while letting clutch out on slopes too. The brakes on the Trooper are a little weak to begin with. When I switch to 15" rims, I plan to machine larger disc and move the caliper out farther for improved braking. I havn't looked into it yet but I may consider replacing the calipers all together. Anyone have any ideas on what would be a good replacement.

Lenny

[brostar]

G'day utvinwv and welcome to utv boards. You have all ready helped me out by pointing out that safety glass will be needed in the hard enclosure when using a wiper system. That is something I have overlooked as I have a Joyner wiper motor on the way that was going to go on the acrylic screen. Just add sand or dirt & it will scratch no doubt. Hopefully I can return the favour with your Trooper brakes. Click here for all the info http://www.utvboard.com/index.php?showtopi...hl=Brake%20bias . My brakes are a lot stronger now

Cheers Mike.

[Guest Lenny]

brostar, thanks, I'll check it out. I use lexan MR10 for my windsheild. It's what racers use and is susposed to be highly resistant to sctatching. My first windsheild was plexa glass and it broke up from the flexing around. No problems with the lexan.

Lenny

[brostar]

I haven't heard of that product before so I will do some research for local suppliers. I take it lexan MR10 is not glass but a plastic screen? This sounds like the way to go, so thanks for that.

Cheers Mike

[rocmoc]

I am also running Lexan.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Guest Lenny]

brostar, I beleive the lexan MR10 is what is used for commercial airline windows and windsheilds. It's also used as a bullet proof glass. I bought mine off Ebay. There is a supplier that offers it. Mine is 1/8" thick and seems to be fine for thickness. The nice thing about the lexan rather it's MR10 or not is that it can be mounted to provide a curved windsheild. I don't know how it would hold up to windsheild wipers but if you only used them when the windsheild was wet, I think you would be fine. In other words don't use the wipers to clean the dust off without first wetting the windsheild.

With mine being curved, I was susprised at how much it pushed the air to the sides. There really isn't much wind inside my cab despite the sides and back being open. Also, it doesn't sound like your going thru a wind tunnel. Went riding with some friends who had a Rhino without a windsheild. They went back to get their jackets saying it was just too cold without a jacket. My wife and I did not get out jackets, We never thought about the cold. we were comfortable being out of the wind. I have to think that this will prevent the dust from rolling into the cab from the sides however I havn't had a chance check this yet. The windsheild does seem to have some static attraction to the dust. Don't know I can spray it with something to stop that. If you want to send me your address, I'll send you a peice of scrap MR10. You can test it for scratching and maybe even put it on your Trooper to see how it attracts dust. My top rack extends out over the windsheild about 7". I don't know if this is helping the wind flow or not. Probably is.

Lenny

[brostar]

Thanks Lenny, I found a supplier in Auckland and got what I wanted to know. Of interest a Lexan mr10 coated sheet is ten times more scratch resistant over Plexiglas and ten times more impact strength than normal auto glass. Don't know if he meant safety or lamented. If it's lamented, that would make it incredibly strong so think it's safety glass which is still impressive. Apparently, it is very easy to shape with an iron and fabric over the top and all race cars use them now. I was told "no problem with wipers" however I'd think auto glass would be better for that. Thanks for the offer to send some mr10 over but I'll call into these guys next time I'm over that way. As far as keeping the dust out with just a windscreen goes, in short it doesn't. Put it this way, over the Xmas break my wife, son and I went for a couple of long drives in a Trooper four seater that had a full enclosure minus the canvas doors on. Half of one of those drives was on a metal road. I was in the front with the owner and we both got covered in dust, the wife and son were in the back and mate, she was total plastered and looked look a ghost. Talk about me being in trouble, I was in a power of s*** as she was not impressed at all. After a month she is just starting to talk to me again. With the canvas sides on it will be a different out come.

Cheers Mike.

[ERV JR]

I think I got a lemon, my parking brake handle appears to be stripped on the teeth and nolonger wants to engage. maybe a better look will tell if it is repairable

[utvinwv]

i noticed when i was planning on running the full enclosure that in both floor boards and the front of the cab around the diff lock levers there is alot of room for dust to enter guess ill have to look into this more as my cab comes in. Any ideas would be great.

[Guest Lenny]

i noticed when i was planning on running the full enclosure that in both floor boards and the front of the cab around the diff lock levers there is alot of room for dust to enter guess ill have to look into this more as my cab comes in. Any ideas would be great.

Check everything around tie interior. There are lots ofd gaps leading to the outside for dust to get in. This also holds for the arteas below you both seats. You have to remove the under seat storage and gas tank to get at these. I got some black caulking from Home Depot and closed them all up. I then drilled with hole saw a 2" dia hole in the floor on each side and used a electrical enclosure hole plug to plug it off. This way I can hose it out and have a place for the water to get out.

Lenny

[brostar]

utvinwv, Lenny is right with what to do for the dust.

ERV JR the main brakes and hand brake run separately and what you are describing has happened to me. The cause was a leaking left hand-brake hose that leaked onto the inside of the left rear wheel making it not so obvious but this could easily also just be air in those brake lines. Try bleeding them. The reservoir is below the middle of the rear axle. If it is a leaking brake hose, it will need replacing and to test for that, pull the hand-brake up as far as it can go to check for leakeage.

Cheers Mike

[utvinwv]

Check everything around tie interior. There are lots ofd gaps leading to the outside for dust to get in. This also holds for the arteas below you both seats. You have to remove the under seat storage and gas tank to get at these. I got some black caulking from Home Depot and closed them all up. I then drilled with hole saw a 2" dia hole in the floor on each side and used a electrical enclosure hole plug to plug it off. This way I can hose it out and have a place for the water to get out.

Lenny

I noticed in my floorboard behind the passenger side seat there already appears to be drain holes from the factory havent checked the size of them yet. Anyone running a wiper system yet? Id love to get some pictures of one. And if anyone is interested i found a pdf file for the options on the T2/T4...tells about installing the heater and wiper. And could someone please pm me on how to get pictures up or maybe using the album section..sorry for the noob questions. Thanks in advance!

[Kinarfi]

i noticed when i was planning on running the full enclosure that in both floor boards and the front of the cab around the diff lock levers there is alot of room for dust to enter guess ill have to look into this more as my cab comes in. Any ideas would be great.

One of the very first things I did was glue air tight fabric from the bar in front of the dash down to the fire wall panels. The air in front and under the hood is probably very dusty from the front wheels, and probably comes through the holes in and under the dash. When I was buying mine, I foresaw the possibility of water and mud splashing through those holes and put in the barrier. I'm now changing it over to wedging flexible foam blocks from bar to bar in front of the dash area. Photos when I'm done.

Kinarfi

[ERV JR]

utvinwv, Lenny is right with what to do for the dust.

ERV JR the main brakes and hand brake run separately and what you are describing has happened to me. The cause was a leaking left hand-brake hose that leaked onto the inside of the left rear wheel making it not so obvious but this could easily also just be air in those brake lines. Try bleeding them. The reservoir is below the middle of the rear axle. If it is a leaking brake hose, it will need replacing and to test for that, pull the hand-brake up as far as it can go to check for leakeage.

Cheers Mike

No the handle itself wont hold, I had the steering shaft problem, the oil pressure issue, my light goes on and off in the volt meter, what else is going to happen