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By Homeowner A
I've been having misfire issues with my UTV 400 when it gets warm and I've thrown all kinds of parts at it so far with no permanent resolution. Today I removed the O2 sensor and it is black on the end. To me that means it's running rich and/or the sensor isn't working. I replaced the sensor with a new one and will see how it goes I guess. With EFI, I'm wondering why the sensor would be this way with low hours and mileage? Is there a way to adjust or lean out fueling on these? Thanks in advance.
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By Homeowner A
I was randomly and briefly able to connect to my Coleman UTV 400s ECU the other day twice and haven't been able to since. When I was able to access it, I found the following codes and wondered if anyone may know where I should start or what I should look at?
P0031 - O2 Sensor Heater Control Voltage Low
P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Voltage Low
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Voltage High
P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure
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By Gorj
I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries. I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each. I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By Marie
Hello, we recently got a 2013 Hisun 800 as a little project for my husband and I to work on. Turns out the guys before us loved the mud anyway. We have replaced the stator and now going to do the Rectifier but here is the hold up as seen in the picture. There are tons of wires going to the battery. I cant seem to find anything that shows what wires should, or shouldn't be attached to the battery or where these 2 plugs go. if someone would please take some pics or share knowledge to where they go I would appreciate it greatly.
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