-
Similar Topics
-
By Prepper
I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines. There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil. My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage). While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure. Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine. Could they both be right ???
Any thoughts ?
-
By Unhappy Kioti K9 Owner
I own a K9 with 50hrs that has been in for repair more than once the farm. Multitude of issues, trying to file lemon on it but interested in knowing if owners are organizing for a class action suit. The dealer informs me there are “a lot of owners very unhappy with these”.
Thanks
-
By Homeowner A
I was randomly and briefly able to connect to my Coleman UTV 400s ECU the other day twice and haven't been able to since. When I was able to access it, I found the following codes and wondered if anyone may know where I should start or what I should look at?
P0031 - O2 Sensor Heater Control Voltage Low
P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Voltage Low
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Voltage High
P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure
-
By Marie
Hello, we recently got a 2013 Hisun 800 as a little project for my husband and I to work on. Turns out the guys before us loved the mud anyway. We have replaced the stator and now going to do the Rectifier but here is the hold up as seen in the picture. There are tons of wires going to the battery. I cant seem to find anything that shows what wires should, or shouldn't be attached to the battery or where these 2 plugs go. if someone would please take some pics or share knowledge to where they go I would appreciate it greatly.
-
-
By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.